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How to Find a Lost Dog - Lessons learned from the successful return of Flo Jo!
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Introduction
Before your Pet ever goes Missing
Make sure your pet is wearing a collar & is micro chipped!
Make a “Lost Pet” folder and keep a copy in your home and in your car
Miscellaneous
After your Pet goes Missing
a. Time is of the essence
b. Contact the microchip company
c. Enlist the help of friends & family
d. Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better!
e. Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy
f. Spread the word online
g. Online lost/found
h. Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible
i. Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet rescue
organizations in your area.
j. Contact Breed Specific Rescues
k. Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet classified
l. Dogs tend to move in the early mornings
m. If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps
What to do once you have a sighting
a. Get the Pet Owner to that spot
b. Gather up the clothes in your hamper
c. Get permission when entering private property
A Few Words of Caution
When You Find Your Pet
Appendix A – Lost Pet Poster Template
Appendix B: Factors That Influence Distances Traveled
Appendix C – Finding your Pet - Checklist
Introduction
This guide to finding your lost pet was made possible by a Border Collie
named Flo Jo, who got a little spooked and took off on her big adventure.
This is a “lesson’s learned” guide that hopefully can help others quickly
locate their lost pet and ensure they make it home safely.
A special thank you to Sandy, Ardis, Barbara, Jennifer, Heather, Heidi,
Elaine, Larry & all the members & friends of the Y2K9’s agility club for
their wonderful insight on what worked best to help bring Flo Jo home.
They truly took teamwork to another level and pulled together to help
bring Flo Jo back to her mom, Rosie.
I would also like to thank Sharon, who shared her experiences with the
safe return of her boy Jesse, who was made it back home after being
away for 7 days!
Go to the Top
Before your Pet ever goes Missing
Make sure your pet is wearing a collar & is micro chipped!
- A collar is the first thing a person who finds a lost pet looks for to see
who the pet belongs to. This is the quickest way to identify your pet
and have him returned safely to you. This is why you should ALWAYS
have a collar with identification on your pet, even if he/she is in the
house or just playing outside in your fenced yard.
You never know if someone will leave the gate open or your dog gets a
burst of energy while chasing a bunny and heads out over the fence on
a new adventure!
Collars can fall off, so you need to have another form of identification
for your pet. This is why getting your pet micro chipped is also extremely
important!
- Flo Jo had a “Home Again” microchip. A microchip is a very small device,
about the size of a grain of rice (12mm). You cannot see the microchip
after it is implanted under the skin of your dog or cat. It is implanted
under your pet’s skin in a method similar to a vaccine injection.
The microchip has no internal battery or power source, so most of the
time it's inactive. When the microchip scanner is passed over it, the
microchip gets enough power from the scanner to transmit the pet's
ID number. Since there's no battery and no moving parts, there's nothing
to wear out or replace. The microchip will last your pet's lifetime.
The biggest benefit of getting your dog micro chipped is the activity
that happens once you report your dog missing.
With HomeAgain, there “Rapid Lost Pet Alerts” are sent the minute you
report your pet as lost. Your pet’s “Lost Pet” info is sent out to the entire
HomeAgain “Pet Recovery Network” within a 25 mile radius. The “Pet
Recovery Network”, is vets, shelters & other local pet owners, whose
pet is also micro chipped and signed up for the alerts, to notify them
of your lost pet.
Make sure you update your pets profile with a good photo of your pet,
along with any info that would be useful in identifying your pet. Make
sure to include your cell phone as a contact number! Chances are you
will be out searching for your pet and not at home to receive any calls
if your pet is spotted.
- The next time you are at the vet, have your vet scan your pet to ensure
the chip show registered with your updated contact information.
Pet Microchip Companies
HomeAgain – (USA / 888-466-3242) - http://public.homeagain.com/index.html
AKC/CAR – (USA / 800-252-7894) - http://www.akccar.org/
Microchip4Solutions (M4S ID) - Canada/North America - http://www.microchipsolutions.com
AVID – (Global - 951-371-7505) - http://www.avidplc.com/
- Your pet only needs one microchip. This document is not an advertisement
for HomeAgain, but they are by far the largest provider in the US. If your pet
has a microchip by a provider other than HomeAgain, you can still register
the number with HomeAgain to take advantage of their services.
One note of caution – The “basic” package does not come with the alerting
services. There is of course an “upcharge” for these services. Make sure
the package you have purchased provides these alert services!
All of the microchip companies offer various services to differentiate them
from other companies. HomeAgain also offers medical insurance, as well
as transport reimbursement of your dog was found 500 miles from home.
Be sure to read the fine print on any service you purchase.
AVID chips are registered to your vet's office, where they have complete
descriptions, emergency contact info for family members. They also
have the ability to order prescription medication.
AVID might not do all the things that Home Again is now doing, but they
also haven't changed the rules mid-stream or started charging annual fees.
Their id tags also carry three phone numbers – owner, family emergency
contact, and vet.
Not all microchips are the same
- AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz
and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters
across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that
can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies
that create chips that are also 125 khz.
Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield)
introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other
readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield microchips could not be
identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in
the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips
in their clinics.
The newer universal scanners can now read both types of chips. If you
have an older microchip from Banfield (PetSmart Vet), it would not
hurt to contact local shelters to make sure they have the universal
scanners that can read your pets chip.
If they do not, contact Banfield and request they provide the scanner
to the shelter.
- Conversely, if you are traveling outside the US with your pet, you
should check with one of the other providers to see if your pet’s
number can be registered with that service. Make sure you provide
a number where you can be reached within that country if your cell
phone does not work globally.
This may not give you complete coverage if the local shelters/vets in
the country you are visiting do not have the “Universal Scanner”. Prior
to the distribution of Universal scanners, scanners were specific to
the microchip provider and could not read other providers microchips.
This meant that even if your dog had a microchip, it would not be
detected by the scanner.
Scanners are usually distributed to the local pet rescue community
by the microchip vendor, so check with the local dominant company
to see if they are distributing “universal scanners”. If possible, contact
a local vet in the area you are visiting to see who the dominant pet
microchip provider is in that area.
Make a “Lost Pet” folder and keep a copy in your home and in your car –
- Make sure you have a good photo of your pet and create a “Lost Pet”
poster on fluorescent paper, that you can start posting at a moments
notice. By having multiple copies already printed in your home, car or
RV, you are ready should your pet go missing from your home or while
you are away in an unfamiliar area.
- If you have multiple pets, you should have a folder for each. The poster
should have a good picture of your pet, along with a description, date
missing, sex, height, approx. weight, coloring, notable injuries or scars
and any special needs like medications. Do not put your name or address
for security reasons. Offer a reward, but don’t put the amount.
- If you live in an area with multiple ethnic groups, you may want to create
your fliers in Spanish or whatever the prevalent language is for your area.
- If possible, withhold at least one identifying characteristic. This will
help identify any scammers that may try to call. Yes, it is a sad world
where we have to worry about people taking advantage in our darkest
hours.
- Again, be sure to put down your cell phone number, since chances are
you will also be away from home searching for your pet. (See Appendix
A for a Template)
- If you have a newer phone that allows you to store word or PDF docs,
it would also be useful to keep a copy on your phone. This way you can
email a copy to friends that are willing to come help, from your home
computer or even while you are out searching.
You can also keep a copy on a memory stick, but I would not make this
my only backup copy. While convenient, I have seen them fail in the past.
- You can also create a free email account with Yahoo/Google and create
a draft email with these documents attached to the email. This way you
can access them from any browser having Internet access.
- In addition to having the poster, you should also have a list of every
24hr vet, animal shelter, police station, rescue & newspaper within your
local area. You can use Google Maps or Yahoo Local to track down this
information. Just enter your zip code as your default location and do
searches on vet, pet rescue, police, etc…..
If your pet is lost away from home, this technique is also extremely
helpful for getting this info for the local area where your pet was last
seen.
- Write down your pet’s microchip number, as well as the service provider’s
number, so they can be alerted even if you are not at home. Also keep a
copy or original of the dog's rabies certificate.
- Apparently there are some states that will seize the dog if you are
stopped for some reason and don't have proof of vaccination. Also keep
a copy or original envelope of county dog license
Read the fine print on the rabies cert, or on local licenses. Neither TAG
is proof - you must have the paper certificate, or in the case of the
Montgomery County (PA) dog license, the little envelope that the tag
comes in.
Storage of documents
- For documents stored in your car, be sure to store them in a water
proof ziplock bag/document case. You can find the document case at
outdoor retailers, such as REI.
- Fold them with the print facing in, since the heat of the car can transfer
the writing to the plastic case, making the document hard, if not
impossible to read.
- Create multiple copies of the poster so you can start posting them
immediately. Keep a heavy duty stapler w/staples and tape in your
car/RV so you can begin posting fliers immediately.
Miscellaneous
- Keep a powerful flashlight in your car/RV. If your pet is sick or injured,
he/she may hide in dark places and be unable to come out to you. A
strong flashlight can help you see in dark spaces.
Use your flashlight for checking under houses and other dark spots. Also
check storage sheds, garages, dumpsters, trash cans, and under cars.
- While cell phones are handy when searching with a group, walky-talkies
can be more convenient. If you are searching in a local wooded area,
walky talkies could be helpful.
After your Pet goes Missing
(See appendix C for a condensed version “checklist”)
a. Time is of the essence – Unfortunately, the longer your pet is missing,
the less likely your chances of recovering your pet. Many of the tips are
most useful if executed immediately after your pet has gone missing.
By taking a few moments now, to put together your own “Lost Pet”
package for each of your pets, you will be ready to start getting the
word out about your pet’s disappearance. Hand out the flier to everyone
you see in the area your pet was last seen. You never know who may
be able to help you, so talk to everyone!
b. Contact the microchip company – Alert the microchip company
immediately, so they can start alerting their network. If you have
registered your pet’s number with more than one company, be sure
to alert them all!
c. Enlist the help of friends & family – There truly is strength in
numbers! You can’t be everywhere, so getting help is so important!
If you are missing your cat, make sure you check in every nook &
cranny in your home! Cat’s have been known to get themselves wedged
it the smallest of spaces or locked in closets and basements. Expand
your search to under porches, neighbor’s sheds, garages, etc…..
While you are out in the area where you pet was last scene, you can
have friends/family handing out fliers to people in the local area,
visiting police stations, shelters and vets.
d. Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better! - I cannot
stress this enough! Telephone Poles, supermarkets, post offices, banks,
pet stores, groomers, gas stations, restaurants, etc….any store window
you can find! Be sure to check back often to see if the poster is missing
or damaged.
Sharon had contacted the local police department when Jesse went
missing, but when the people who found Jesse called; the police
dispatcher did not find the missing pet info right away. The officers
who responded remembered seeing all the lost dog posters and figured
this was the dog and contacted Sharon.
Make sure you leave enough posters so all carriers & patrolmen can get
a copy. It does not hurt to follow up with calls after shift changes to
make sure the new dispatcher is aware of you missing pet.
Stop patrolmen, delivery people, postal workers, landscapers, public
works people on the street and make sure they have a copy of your
flier!
Go door to door and talk to people. Many people have pets and
understand what you are going through. You will find many to be
sympathetic and want to help.
The biggest thing is to be in the area all the time giving out posters
and searching. If the community sees you care, then they will care too.
Talk to people and ask questions. Tell people, report it to as many
relevant organizations as possible and constantly call them to check
updates. Get it in the paper, put flyers EVERYWHERE. The more people
who know who your dog is and what he looks like, the more chances
you will have of someone spotting him and calling you or picking him
up.
You will be amazed at how much support you will get from the
community. People will come out of the woodwork to help you and to
look for the dog on their own, whether you are aware of it or not.
There will be times when you feel like you are getting somewhere...and
there will be times when you'll feel like you are looking for a needle in
a haystack. Anything you do is a step in the right direction. Your dog
is a family member. Don't give up.
e. Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy –
While a dog may be too scared to come out around strange people, they
maybe more inclined to come out around a familiar dog pal. Bringing a
4 legged buddy can be very helpful! If you don’t have a 4 legged buddy,
bringing your pets favorite squeaky toy so he/she can hear a familiar
“happy” sound, can help bring him/her out if hiding in the bushes.
Jesse curled up in a wooded yard behind a fence where 2 Jack Russell’s
lived. They had been barking at the fence for 4 days, before their owner
went over to his neighbor to see what the dogs could be barking at.
That is where they found Jesse.
f. Spread the word online – If you belong to any local newsgroups, post
a message that you’re pet is lost. Chances are that others on the local
list will forward your message and help spread the word about your pet.
Send an email to all your friends and ask them to forward it on to
anyone in the area. You can place a free classified on www.PetFinder.com.
g. Online lost/found – There are websites like www.findtoto.com or www.SherlockBones.com , which are pay services for automated calls
to neighbors in the area where your pet was last scene. They make
automated calls, giving your lost dog or lost cat message describing
your pet in detail, including your contact number, and our website
address where the recipient can go to view your lost pet's picture
and information. If you have a cat, you can try www.TabbyTracker.com.
There is another site called www.fidofinder.com. I have not used this
site, but have listed it in case it could be helpful.
www.missingpetpartnership.org - Missing Pet Partnership is a national,
nonprofit organization dedicated to reuniting lost companion animals
with their owners/guardians. There website offers behavior-based lost
pet recovery tips and referrals to lost pet services.
You can also post on Petfinder.com, Craigslist, yahoo groups like
“K9AmberAlert”.
h. Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible –
Calling shelters is not always enough. Many times, shelter worker may
not know the difference between breeds/colors.
Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter.
Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is
euthanized! There have been many stories of a pet being euthanized or
adopted out, even though the pet owner had called the shelter about
the missing pet.
Make sure you leave a copy of your pets lost poster. Make friends with
the shelter folks so they all know you are looking for your pet.
i. Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet rescue
organizations in your area.
Usually there are smaller pet rescue groups that work with the local
humane shelter. They often take pets from the shelter to save them
from euthanasia and adopt them out to new homes. Call the rescue
groups regularly to see if they have your pet.
j. Contact Breed Specific Rescues – These rescues may not be local,
but pull dogs from shelters if they find out about them. So if you are
missing your Great Dane, be sure to contact all the Great Dane or
Large Breed Rescues in your state.
k. Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet
classified. Believe it or not, not everyone uses the Internet on a regular
basis. With consolidation in the newspaper industry, sometimes one
paper owns many of the smaller papers and shares a single call center
for classifieds. Rather than picking up every paper, a single call to the
call center can check a number of publications classifieds in a single call.
l. Dogs tend to move in the early mornings (5am-7am) or at dusk. Be
sure you are out looking during those time frames. Check out Appendix
B for a better understanding of your dogs behavior, based on his/her
personality.
m. If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps- This is helpful to get
familiar with the layout, as well as giving you the ability to divide the
search area up into sections between all your helpers.
What to do once you have a sighting
a. Get the Pet Owner to that spot - Once you have a spotting, let the
owner go to that spot, all others create a wide circle around that area
but let the owner quietly call. Bring a familiar 4 legged friend if possible.
b. Gather up the clothes in your hamper – At dusk, leave a crate with
some of your dirty clothes and some food/water. Leave more clothes
around creating a scent trail back to the crate.
c. Get permission when entering private property - Once the dog is
sighted, if it happens on private property be SURE to ask permission
of the owner to go onto the property and let him/her know with how
many people will be involved. Be sure to be polite and respectful.
A Few Words of Caution
Unfortunately, there are dangerous people in our society who prey
upon victims by using "found" pets as a ploy.
• NEVER respond to a "found" pet contact alone. Take a friend or two
along with you.
• Arrange to meet in a public place.
• NEVER invite the person to your home unless you happen to know
them well.
Beware of money scams. A common one is a person calls you claiming
to be a long-haul trucker. He says he picked up your pet and is out of
state now. He heard about your ad, flyer, etc. and says he will return
your pet if you will pay to ship it home. This person does not have
your pet; he is only trying to take your money.
Don't wander around looking for your pet alone, either during the day
or at night. Always bring a friend or relative. This is especially
important in unfamiliar neighborhoods.
Use the identifying information you have withheld about your pet.
Please remember that you should never give out all of the identifying
features of your lost pet. If the person who claims to have found your
pet cannot describe these features to you, they do not have your pet!
When You Find Your Pet
Go around and collect up all of your old flyers.
If you placed your dogs missing information online, makes sure you go
back and mark them as “safe”.
Thank everybody who has helped you.
Give your pet a big hug and let him/her know how happy you are to
have them home again!
Appendix A –
(Delete Appendix A and this line, format spacing as needed. Ideally use
a very large sign for posters & use this size for handouts)
LOST DOG
REWARD
Missing since: _______
Description example: Whippet (like a small greyhound) White with
patches of brown/black 47 pounds - male
Name: Jetzon - very friendly
Please contact owner:
“123-123-1234” Cell
Insert your dogs photo here
Appendix B: Factors That Influence Distances Traveled
Copyright protected – Reprinted with permission from the Missing
Pet Partnership @ www.missingpetpartnership.org
There are six major factors that influence the distances that a lost dog
will travel: Temperament, Circumstances, Weather, Terrain, Appearance,
and Population Density.
Temperament of the Dog
How a dog behaves towards strangers influences how far it will travel
(when lost) before someone intervenes and rescues it. There are three
primary behavioral categories of lost dogs: Gregarious Dogs, Aloof Dogs,
and Xenophobic Dogs.
Gregarious Dogs: Wiggly-butt, friendly dogs are more inclined to go
directly up to the first person who calls them. Depending on the terrain
and population density where the dog was lost, these dogs will
generally be found fairly close to home or will be picked up by
someone close to the escape point. Gregarious dogs are often
"adopted" by individuals (not shelter or rescue workers) who find them.
Aloof Dogs: Dogs with aloof temperaments are wary of strangers and
will initially avoid human contact. They will be inclined to accept human
contact only after they have overcome fear issues and become hungry
enough. While these dogs can travel a great distance, aloof dogs
eventually can be enticed with food and patience, typically by experienced
rescuers who know how to approach and capture a wary dog. These
dogs are often recovered by rescue group volunteers, and their wariness
can be easily misinterpreted as "abused." In addition, these dogs are
often not recovered for weeks or months after their escape, giving
them the physical appearance (thinness, injuries, stickers, ticks, etc.)
that they are homeless, abused, and unloved.
Xenophobic (Fearful) Dogs: Xenophobia means "fear or hatred of things
strange or foreign." Dogs with xenophobic temperaments (due to
genetics and/or puppyhood experiences) are more inclined to travel
farther and are at a higher risk of being hit by cars. Due to their
cowering, fearful behavior, people assume these dogs were "abused,"
and even if the dog has ID tags, they will refuse to contact the previous
owner. Some of these panic-stricken dogs will even run from their
owners! It may be necessary to use other dogs to get close enough to
capture them or to use baited dog traps.
Circumstances Surrounding the Disappearance
A dog that digs out from a yard to explore a scent will tend to travel
a short distance before it is found meandering and doubling back as
it explores a scent. On the other hand, a dog that bolts in panic due
to fireworks or thunder will take off at a blind run and can run for
several miles.
Weather: A dog that escapes on a beautiful spring day may travel farther
than one that escapes in a snowstorm. Extreme weather conditions
(snow, hail, rain, and sweltering heat) will decrease the distances that
lost dogs travel.
Terrain: A dog that escapes in a residential area will not travel as far
as a dog that escapes in a mountainous area. Fences that create
barriers will influence a dog's travel since a dog will tend to take the
"path of least resistance" when traveling. Cactus, heavy brush, and
steep cliffs can be barriers that influence whether a dog continues on
a path or changes directions.
Appearance of the Dog: What a dog looks like can influence how
quickly it will be picked up by a rescuer. In general, most people are
less inclined to pull over and attempt to grab a loose Pit Bull they
perceive as being "aggressive" than they would a "friendly" Labrador
Retriever. Also, size matters as people are more inclined to pick up
small dogs because they look vulnerable and are easier to transport
and house than large dogs. In addition, people are more likely to
attempt to rescue a purebred dog that they perceive to have value
than a mixed breed dog. When average motorists see a mixed breed
dog trotting down the sidewalk, their impression is often that the
dog belongs in the neighborhood or that it is a homeless stray. But
when those same people see a Boston Terrier, they are inclined to
believe that, because it is a "valuable purebred dog," it must be a
lost pet.
Population Density: A dog that escapes in Manhattan will travel a
shorter distance than will a dog that escapes in the Rockies or in
rural farmland. When dogs escape into areas with a high number of
people, their chances of being found close to the escape point are
increased.
But in areas with an extremely low number of people, dogs tend to
travel farther and their chances of being found close to the escape
point are decreased. A dog that escapes in the middle of the night
will travel farther before being seen than a dog that escapes during
rush hour traffic.
Owner Behaviors That Create Problems
Dog owners often behave in ways that actually inhibit their chances
of recovering their lost dogs. Some develop a "wait and see" approach
(believing their dog will return home like Lassie) and by the time they
start actively looking, the vital first few hours to locate the dog (or
witnesses who saw the dog) are gone.
Others develop "tunnel vision" and fail to find their dog because they
focus on wrong theories. They assume their dog was "stolen and sold
to research" when in fact their dog might have been rescued and put
up for adoption through a local adoption event. They experience "grief
avoidance" and quickly give up their search effort because they really
believe they will never see their dog again. They feel helpless and
alone, often discouraged by others who rebuke them and tell them
"it was just a dog" and "you'll never find your dog."
In addition, the level of human animal bond (HAB) will influence the
recovery efforts. People with a strong HAB will go to extremes to find
their lost dog. They will accomplish the "impossible" task of visiting
all shelters, posting flyers, and contacting rescue groups while
maintaining a full-time job and other family commitments. On the
other hand, people with a weak HAB will quickly become discouraged,
assume they will never see their dog again, and will stop searching.
Rescuer Behaviors That Create Problems
People who find stray dogs often misinterpret the dog's behavior; they
assume that the cowering, fearful dog was "abused" when in fact the
dog has a xenophobic temperament and has been shy and fearful
since it was a puppy, due to genetics and puppyhood experiences.
Dogs found in rural areas are often assumed to be "dumped" and
homeless; many rescuers never think this could be a dog that was
lost. Some people who find a stray dog that does not have a collar
automatically assume it is "homeless" and therefore they immediately
work to place the dog rather than attempt to find the dog's owner.
In addition, the first place the owner of a lost dog will search for
his or her dog - the local shelter - is typically the last place that
someone who finds a loose dog will take it (due to the fear of
euthanasia)!
Copyright protected – Reprinted with permission from the Missing
Pet Partnership @ www.missingpetpartnership.org
Appendix C – Finding your Pet - Checklist
____ . Search all areas of your home/yard
____ . Contact the microchip company
____ . Enlist the help of friends & family
____ . Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better!
____ . Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy
____ . Spread the word online
____ . Online lost/found
____ . Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible
____ . Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet
rescue organizations in your area.
____ . Contact Breed Specific Rescues
____ . Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet
classified
____ . Dogs tend to move in the early mornings/dusk, make sure you
are out there
____ . If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps
What to do once you have a sighting
____ . Get the Pet Owner to that spot
____ . Gather up the clothes in your hamper
____ . Get permission when entering private property
Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Aug. 25, 2009