tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2010://1 2010-01-23T18:24:05Z Movable Type 3.33 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2010://1.762 2010-01-23T18:22:51Z 2010-01-23T18:24:05Z

NJ - Reporting pet shop problems NJ has about 55 pet stores that sell puppies. If you witness unsanitary conditions, over-crowding, sick puppies (coughing, eye & nose discharge, diarrhea, etc), here's what eyewitnesses can do: Contact the health departments that...

Maureen NJ - Reporting pet shop problems NJ has about 55 pet stores that sell puppies. If you witness unsanitary conditions, over-crowding, sick puppies (coughing, eye & nose discharge, diarrhea, etc), here's what eyewitnesses can do: Contact the health departments that have jurisdiction over the stores. A directory of county and local offices can be found here: http://www.state.nj.us/health/lh/directory/lhdselectcounty.shtml If you have no luck there, contact the NJ Office of Animal Welfare and they will refer to a health officer: http://www.state.nj.us/health/animalwelfare/index.shtml For all neglect issues, cruelty, lack of sustenance, sick animals, call the NJ SPCA: 1-800-582-5979. Thanks for being "watchdogs" and for more info, contact me at info@njcapsa.org Libby Williams Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Jan. 23, 2010 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.761 2009-12-29T15:27:15Z 2009-12-29T15:28:03Z

Forwarded message - please see contact info with each listing Resources for Finding or Reporting Lost/Found Dogs & Pets Dog Detective Lost & Found Network for Pets http://dogdetective.com Dognamic.com http://www.dognamic.com set up amber alerts for pets http://www.rescueink.org/ info@rescueink.org - (631)...

Maureen Forwarded message - please see contact info with each listing Resources for Finding or Reporting Lost/Found Dogs & Pets Dog Detective Lost & Found Network for Pets http://dogdetective.com Dognamic.com http://www.dognamic.com set up amber alerts for pets http://www.rescueink.org/ info@rescueink.org - (631) 7 3 7 - 2 8 3 4 they are getting lots of press…were on Ellen Degeneres’ show Messages can be posted through K9Alert's web site at http://www.K9Alert.com or via http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K9Alert. For more info, please see K9Alert.com or read about K9Alert on Google. Please note that K9Amber Alert is nation-wide, whereas K9Alert serves primarily So. CA, because an alert for a lost dog in Los Angeles is not going to do much good for someone reading about it in Chicago a day later (K9Amber Alert is monitored, whereas alerts on K9Alert reaches the public 24/7, as soon as they are posted). When K9Alert get alerts from other states, we cross-post it on K9Amber Alert & to rescuers in those states. I am pleased to announce the formation of the "Finding Animals Stolen Tipline" (FAST), a new clearinghouse for people in the New England Area to post pictures and information about their animals who are believed to be stolen. It can be accessed at: www.fastnewengland.org Notably, the FAST site includes a live message forum, FAST TALK, for instantaneous reporting of sightings, or for those who wish to offer support. I am a professional Animal Communicator and am providing FAST as a free public service, through my consultancy practice, Animal Translations (www.AnimalTranslations.com). Maureen Harmonay Sterling, MALEASE CROSSPOST! Losing a pet may be one of the most heartbreaking and anxiety- producing situations anyone will ever experience. We are here to make the search for your lost pet fast, easy and thorough. Getting your pet home to you quickly and safely is what we're all about. Dogs, cats and other household pets slip out of their homes and away from their owners every day even in the most loving and pet-centric homes. Now, for the first time, Lostandpound.com provides an ABSOLUTELY FREE resource to help owners reunite with their lost pets. Lostandpound.com allows pet owners to post pictures and descriptions of their lost pets including the location where they were last seen. Upon entering this information, a LOST PET ALERT is sent immediately via email to a combination of participating veterinarians, animal shelters, police stations, media outlets, pet service companies and "neighborhood watch volunteers" within a 15-mile radius of where your pet was lost. http://www.lostandpound.com/ http://www.lostandpound.com/index.php?ccsForm=volunteer_signup_form Resources for Finding or Reporting Lost/Found Dogs & Pets: An Alphabetized List. American Kennel Club Companion Animal Recovery Program http://www.akccar. org/ For animals with tattoos or microchips. If the animal is enrolled in the program, the owner will be called immediately. To report a lost or found pet, contact: AKC Companion Animal Recovery 24 hours a day by: calling 800-252-7894, faxing 919-233-1290, or via email at found@akc.org Brookline Labrador Retriever Rescue, Inc www.brooklinelabres cue.org Dog Owner's Guide Lost Pet page http://www.canismaj or.com/dog/ lostdog.html Tips on how to get your dog back Fido Finder http://www.fidofind er.com/ By breed lists of Lost and Found Dogs K9 Amber Alert: http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/K9AmberAle rt/ Must join to post. This is a moderated list. Note the rules. Photos and other attachments will be stripped so be prepared to narrate. Lost Dog Search http://www.lostdogs earch.com/ Based in southeastern Massachusetts, LostDogSearch is a one-person volunteer operation that provides free information, guidance, and support through this website, emails, and phone calls. LOST IN OH http://www.thepetre scue.com/ States/Oh/ gorescue. html Lost Paws: http://www.lostpaws .com/ A free service to help reunite owners with their lost animals. You can report a lost or found pet or search the reports already in their database. Lost Pets International http://www.flealess .org/lostpets/ Provides links by state for posting notices of lost and missing pets Lost Pet SOS http://lostpetsos. org/ Provides a searchable database of lost and found pets MaPaw Siberian Husky Rescue www.sibes.com Missing Pet Network www.missingpet. net The MPN is a group of volunteers sponsored by the USDA Animal Care Office, who help people find missing pet animals. They accept no money, make no endorsements, and use no advertising. Missing Pet Partnership http://www.lostapet .org/ Provides information on the behavioral patterns of lost dogs and tips on how to create giant, florescent poster-boards that have proven highly effective in recovering lost dogs National Dog Registry http://www.national dogregistry. com/ Tracing of lost dogs with tattoos Operation KONA http://www.operatio nkona.org/ Lost and Found Pets across the U.S. PA NJ DOG and PET EVENTS http://pets. groups.yahoo. com/group/ PA_NJ_DOG_ and_PET_EVENTS/ Lost and found dogs and cats in the southeastern Pennsylvania and all of New Jersey area may also be posted here: Peanuts Friends http://www.peanutsf riends.org/ A lost and found pets website exclusively for southwest georgia. Pet Detectives, Inc. http://www.petdetec tivesinc. com Licensed PI Coaching by phone or on site search Pet Hunters International http://www.pethunte rs.com/ Maintains a national listing of certified pet detectives who offer lost pet services Some resouces have MAR (missing animal response) cat detection dogs and/or MAR trailing dogs trained to track the scent trail of lost dogs while others offer consultations. Petfinder www.petfinder. com Pet Finder is a site used by shelters and rescue groups to post adoptable dogs. Many strays not claimed by their families end up being posted for adoption at Pet Finder. This site should be checked routinely when searching for any missing dog! Click on "Pet Search" (as if you were looking to adopt a dog of a certin breed) and you can see photos of various available dogs. It would be great if someone had the time to simply research posts to the Amber Alert list and cross check them to the Pet Finder web site-- even up to two weeks after a missing dog is posted. You might just find lost dogs listed for adoption on this site! :) Petzinjam http://www.petznjam .com/ The information on this site is updated daily and goes to several southeastern Michigan shelters where volunteers use it to match up animals with owners. Returnmypet. com http://www.returnmy pet.com/ Offers advice and links to permit you to post an ad for a month. Sherlock Bones http://www.sherlock bones.com/ Commercial service for locating lost pets. I have just started a new Yahoo group called MissingPetsNetwork. interested in joining, please visit: http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/missingpet snetwork/ Thank you for all that you do for the animal beings! Shelter Buds Grace Flynn Bourbonnais, IL Grace Flynn" shelterbuds@sbcglobal.net http://groups.yahoo.com/group/USA_ALL_LOST_PETS/ Description This site was made to post any and all pets lost anywhere in the USA. I saw so many on rescue sites but they can get lost there. Maybe this will help one find its way home. Our featured pet is a Boston Terrier Strawberry, missing from Villawood Ln. Garland Texas near Dallas Texas. I will update the photos from time to time on the home page. If you have one you want posted just contact me. Maggie http://groups.yahoo.com/group/missingfoundpets/ Description This group is an extension of the Midwest Missing Pet Network, BUT ALLOWS FOR THE POSTING OF LOST/FOUND PETS WORLDWIDE. It is not a typical 'discussion' group in that the objectives of this group are to facilitate communications between those working in animal welfare related activities, pet owners, and other interested parties, related SOLELY to Lost/Found Pets, Disasters and other Urgent situations affecting pets in the Midwest. 1. Do not post ads for animals that are offered for sale. 2. Flaming, foul language, and/or rude postings are NOT allowed. 3. SPAMMING or commercial messages are NOT allowed. 4. Do not post solicitations or commercial messages. The types of posts appropriate for the list include: Lost or Found Pet Information, Animal Welfare information related to disaster response or other critical situations. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Amber_Alerts_Missing_People_AMW/ Description This group is for posting and viewing missing CHILDREN, ADULTS, PETS, and viewing AMERICAS MOST WANTED. Please post a picture of the missing persons or pet with all the details, NO other post will be allowed. NO advertising groups or you will be banned. You may post as many times as you want. IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE SEEN A MISSING CHILD, call The National Center for Missing and Exploited Children at 1-800-843-5678 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Amber_Alerts_Missing_people_AMW LOST DOGS K9 Amber Alert. This is a nationwide group and is to be used for posting alerts for missing dogs throughout the United States but not limited to: dogs escaped or suspected taken from backyards, dog shows, and caretakers. Photos can be uploaded to the group. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/K9AmberAlert/ http://dogdetective.com/found-dog.cfm ; http://www.k9alert.com lost dogs www.HelpmefindMYPET.com Blair Ganske Dir. Shelter Outreach 866-699-3463 blair@helpmefindmypet.com; http://newjersey.craigslist.org/about/cities.html post- City; State, Pets www.lostapet.org Camden County,NJ- LOST PETS- K-9 SAR Services- Julie Cimini- www.julielovespuppies.com 609-636-4650 LOST PET BEHAVIOR: How to Provide Recovery Tips That Save Lives By Kathy “Kat” Albrecht There is a science to finding lost people. Professional trained searchers don’t wander aimlessly in the woods when searching for a missing hiker. Instead, an organized search plan is implemented based on the knowledge of the behavioral patterns of lost people. For example, backpackers behave differently when lost and travel different distances than do hunters, berry pickers, and Alzheimer’s patients. And because search-and-rescue mangers are so familiar with these patterns of behavior, they can accurately predict where a lost person will be found. Backpackers are typically found on or near an established trail, hunters are typically found deep in the woods, and Alzheimer’s patients are typically found within a ¼ mile radius of where they became lost. So what do we know about the behavioral patterns of lost pets? Thanks to Missing Pet Partnership, a grassroots nonprofit organization, we know that the three most common lost pet recovery tips that we give (place a classified Ad in the paper, post flyers in your neighborhood, and visit the local animal shelter every day) are not always the best pieces of advice! That’s because dogs are much different than cats. The methods that should be used to search for a lost dog, an outdoor-access cat that has vanished from its territory, and an indoor-only cat that has escaped outside are all entirely different methods. Dogs travel and are picked up by rescuers who determine their fate, the disappearance of an outdoor- access cat means that something has happened to interrupt that cat’s behavior of coming home, and indoor-only cats that escape outdoors hide in silence near their escape point. And it is not only the behaviors of lost dogs and cats that have been overlooked – the behaviors of the people who lose their pets and the behaviors of the people who find those lost pets impact the chances that a lost pet will be returned home. Understanding these human and animal behaviors will increase the likelihood that lost pets will be found. Here is what we know so far: LOST CAT BEHAVIOR Outdoor-Access Cats: Cats are territorial. When an outdoor-access cat suddenly vanishes, it means that something has happened to that cat to interrupt its normal behavior of returning home. The disappearance could mean that the cat is injured, trapped, or deceased within its territory. It could also mean that the cat was transported out of the area—either intentionally (by an irate neighbor who trapped the cat) or unintentionally (by the cat climbing into an opened parked van). It could also mean that the cat was displaced into unfamiliar territory— something as simple as being chased by a dog causing the cat to hide under a deck a block from home. When this happens, the temperament of the cat will influence how it behaves. When displaced into unfamiliar territory, some cats will be so panicked and afraid they will remain in the same hiding place for weeks and they will never return home while others will break cover within hours and return home. The investigative question to solve when an outdoor- access cat disappears is: WHAT HAPPENED TO THE CAT? Indoor-Only Cats: The territory for an indoor-only cat is the inside of the home where it lives. When an indoor-only cat escapes outdoors, it is “displaced” into unfamiliar territory. Usually they will look for the first place that will offer concealment and protection. Their instinctive response is to HIDE IN SILENCE because that is their primary protection from predators. How long they remain in that hiding place and what they do from there is dependant upon their temperament. Using baited humane traps as a recovery tool is a highly effective method for recovering displaced, panicked cats that are hiding. The investigative question to solve when an indoor-only cat escapes outdoors is: WHERE IS THE CAT HIDING? Temperaments That Influence Distances Traveled: Temperament influences actions. How a cat behaves when in its normal territory will influence how it behaves when it becomes “lost” or displaced into unfamiliar territory. Encourage cat owners to develop a search strategy based on the specific behavior of their cat. Here are guidelines to use: CURIOUS/CLOWN CAT – These are gregarious cats that get into trouble easily, run to the door to greet a stranger, and are not easily afraid of anything. When displaced, these cats might initially hide but then they will most likely TRAVEL. Strategy for recovery should be to place florescent posters within at least a five block radius. Also, interview neighbors in a door-to-door search, thoroughly searching possible hiding places in yards of houses and other areas within a close proximity to the escape point. Do not assume that the cat will come when you call! CARE-LESS CAT – These aloof cats don’t seem to care much about people. When a stranger comes in, they stand back and watch. When displaced they will likely initially hide, but eventually they will break cover and come back to the door, meow, or possibly travel. Strategy should be to search hiding places nearby, interview neighbors door-to-door and search their yards. If these efforts do not produce results, consider setting a baited humane trap. CAUTIOUS CAT – These cats are generally stable but they show occasional shyness. They like people but when a stranger comes to the door, they dart and hide. Some of these cats peek around the corner and eventually come out to investigate. When displaced, they will likely immediately hide in fear. If not pushed (scared off) from their hiding place, they will typically return to the point where they escaped from or they will meow when the owner comes to look for them. This behavior typically is observed either within the first two days (after the cat has built up confidence) or not until seven to ten days later when their hunger or thirst has reached a point where they will respond. Strategy would be to conduct a tightly focused search in neighbors’ yards and to set baited humane traps. CATATONIC/XENOPHOBIC CAT – Xenophobia means “fear or hatred of things strange or foreign.” Xenophobic cats are afraid of EVERYTHING that is new or unfamiliar. Their fearful behavior is hardwired into their character; it is caused by genetics and/or kittenhood experiences (nature or nurture). These cats will hide when a stranger comes into their home, and they typically will not come out until well after the company has left. They do not do well with human contact (being held, petted, etc.) and they are easily disturbed by any change in their environment. When displaced, they bolt and then HIDE IN SILENCE. They tend to remain in the same hiding place and become almost catatonic, immobilized with fear. If they are found by someone other than their owners, they are typically mistaken as being untamed or “feral.” The primary strategy to recover these cats would be to set baited humane traps. Xenophobic cats that become “lost” are routinely absorbed into the feral cat population. LOST DOG BEHAVIOR Dogs are much more difficult to recover than lost cats because they travel farther and they are picked up by rescuers who determine their fate. There are six major factors that influence the distances that lost dogs travel: Temperament, Circumstances, Weather, Terrain, Appearance, and Population Density. Temperament of the Dog How a dog behaves towards strangers influences how far it will travel (when lost) before someone intervenes and rescues it. There are three primary behavioral categories that lost dogs are classified into: Gregarious Dogs, Aloof Dogs, and Xenophobic Dogs. GREGARIOUS DOGS: Wiggly-butt, friendly dogs are more inclined to go directly up to the first person who calls them. Depending on the terrain and population density where the dog was lost, these dogs will generally be found fairly close to home or will be picked up by someone close to the escape point. Gregarious dogs are often “adopted” by individuals (not shelter or rescue workers) who find them. ALOOF DOGS: Dogs with aloof temperaments are wary of strangers and will initially avoid human contact. Eventually, they will be inclined to accept human contact once they have overcome fear issues and become hungry enough. While these dogs can travel a great distance, aloof dogs eventually can be enticed with food and patience, typically by experienced rescuers who know how to approach and capture a wary dog. These dogs are often recovered by rescue group volunteers, and their wariness can be easily misinterpreted as “abused.” In addition, these dogs are often not recovered for weeks or months after their escape, giving them the physical appearance (thinness, injuries, stickers, ticks, etc.) that they are homeless, abused, and unloved. XENOPHOBIC (FEARFUL) DOGS: Xenophobia means “fear or hatred of things strange or foreign”. Dogs with xenophobic temperaments (due to genetics and/or puppyhood experiences) are more inclined to travel farther and are at a higher risk of being hit by cars. Due to their cowering, fearful behavior, people assume these dogs were “abused”, and even if the dog has ID tags, they will refuse to contact the previous owner. Some of these panic-stricken dogs will even run from their owners! It may be necessary to use other dogs to get close enough to capture them or to use baited dog traps. Circumstances Surrounding the Disappearance A dog that digs out from a yard to explore a scent will tend to travel a short distance before it is found—meandering and doubling back as it explores a scent. On the other hand, a dog that bolts in panic due to fireworks or thunder will take off at a blind run and can run for several miles. Weather A dog that escapes on a beautiful spring day may travel farther than one that escapes in a snow storm. Extreme weather conditions (snow, hail, rain, sweltering heat) will decrease the distances that lost dogs travel. Terrain A dog that escapes in a residential area will not travel as far as a dog that escapes in a mountainous area. Fences that create barriers will influence a dog’s travel since a dog will tend to take the “path of least resistance” when traveling. Cactus, heavy brush, and steep cliffs can be barriers that influence whether or dog continues on a path or changes directions. Appearance of the Dog What a dog looks like can influence how quickly it will be picked up by a rescuer. In general, most people are less inclined to pull over and attempt to grab a loose Pit bull they perceive as being “aggressive” than they would a “friendly” wiggly Labrador Retriever. Also, size matters: people are more inclined to pick up small dogs - they look vulnerable and are easier to transport and house than large dogs. In addition, people are more likely to attempt to rescue a purebred dog that they perceive to have value than a mixed breed dog. When average motorists see a mixed breed dog trotting down the sidewalk, their impression is often that the dog belongs in the neighborhood or that it is a homeless stray. But when those same people see a Boston Terrier, they are inclined to believe that, because it is a “valuable purebred dog”, it must be a lost pet. Population Density A dog that escapes in Manhattan will travel a shorter distance than will a dog that escapes in the Rocky Mountains or in rural farmland. When dogs escape into areas with a high number of people, their chances of being found close to the escape point are increased. But in areas with an extremely low number of people, they tend to travel further and their chances of being found close to the escape point are decreased. A dog that escapes in the middle of the night will travel farther before being seen than a dog that escapes during rush hour traffic. HUMAN BEHAVIORS Guardian Behaviors Guardians often behave in ways that actually inhibit their chances of recovering their lost pets. Some develop a “wait and see” approach (believing their pet will return home like Lassie) and by the time they start actively looking, the vital first few hours to locate their pet (or witnesses who saw the pet) are gone. Others develop “tunnel vision” and fail to find their dog or cat because they focus on wrong theories. They assume their dog was “stolen and sold to research” when in fact their dog might have been rescued and put up for adoption through a local adoption event. They experience “grief avoidance” and quickly give up their search effort because they really believe they will never see their cat again. They feel helpless and alone, often discouraged by others who rebuke them and tell them “it was just a dog” and “you’ll never find your cat.” In addition, the level of human animal bond (HAB) will influence the recovery efforts of a lost pet. People with a strong HAB will go to extremes to find their lost pet. They will accomplish the “impossible” task of visiting all shelters, posting flyers, and contacting rescue groups while maintaining a full-time job and other family commitments. One of the primary reasons why so many lost cats are never found is that cat guardians focus their entire search efforts by posting lost cat flyers and by searching the cages at the local shelter. Although these techniques are important and should not be overlooked, the primary technique to recover a missing cat should be to obtain permission from all neighbors to enter their yards and conduct an aggressive, physical search for the missing cat (and to set baited humane traps there when necessary). Simply asking a neighbor to “look” for the lost cat is not sufficient! Neighbors are not going to crawl around on their bellies under their decks or houses to search for someone else’s lost cat! It is up to the guardians to do this! In addition, the failure to microchip and place a collar with an ID tag are a major contributing factor to lost dogs and cats never finding their way back home. Indoor- only cats and dogs that seldom go places are all at risk of escaping when a burglar breaks into a home or when a natural disaster strikes. The amount of dogs and cats that were displaced from their homes and unidentifiable during Hurricane Katrina is staggering. Thousands of these animals were transported to animal shelters and sanctuaries all across the country, making a reunion with the family who might be searching for them nearly impossible. Losing a pet is like cancer – most people don’t give it much thought and most never believe it will happen to them. If you haven’t done so already, make sure all of your animals have collars, ID tags, and microchips. Rescuer Behaviors The behaviors of people who find stray dogs differ from the behaviors of people who find lost cats. People who find stray dogs with skittish temperaments often misinterpret the dog’s behavior. They assume that the cowering, fearful dog was “abused” when in fact the dog has a xenophobic temperament and has been shy and fearful since it was a puppy, due to genetics and puppyhood experiences. For this reason, it is recommended that dogs with xenophobic temperaments should wear an additional tag on their collar that says, “I’M AFRAID, NOT ABUSED!” Dogs found in rural areas are often assumed to be “dumped” and homeless; many rescuers never think this could be a dog that was lost. Some people who find a stray dog that does not have a collar automatically assume it is “homeless” and therefore they immediately work to place the dog rather than attempt to find the dog’s owner. In addition, the first place where the owner of a lost dog will search for their dog – the local shelter – is typically the last place that someone who finds a loose dog will take it (due to the fear of euthanasia)! When people find stray cats, they also misinterpret behaviors. When rescuers observe a cat with a xenophobic temperament they assume, based on the cowering and skittish behavior, that the cat is an untamed “feral.” For this reason, it is recommended that cats with xenophobic temperaments should wear an additional tag on their break-away collars that says, “I’M FEARFUL, NOT FERAL!” While it is true that feral, untamed cats that are unaccustomed to human contact will hiss, spit, twirl, lunge, and urinate when humanely trapped, this “wild animal” behavior is also common in cats who have xenophobic temperaments! We know this because we have talked to owners of lost xenophobic cats that had to be humanely trapped in order to be recovered; the owners verified that their cats exhibited wild behavior while in the humane trap. These behaviors are a reflection of a fearful TEMPERAMENT, not a lack of TAMENESS. Shelter and TNR workers should scan all “feral” cats for microchips and conduct research (check Classifieds, lost cat reports, etc.) to determine if the new “feral” is actually someone’s xenophobic pet cat that escaped outdoors, perhaps several weeks or months before it was found. A Final Word Missing Pet Partnership’s web site (www.lostapet.org) lists lost pet recovery tips based on the analysis of lost pet behavior. With the knowledge of these human and animal behaviors and new suggested methods on how to recover a lost pet, we can better guide guardians and increase the probability that they will bring the lost animal that they love back home. Kathy “Kat” Albrecht is a former police detective-turned-pet detective and author of “THE LOST PET CHRONICLES: ADVENTURES OF A K-9 COP TURNED PET DETECTIVE.” Kat is the founder of Missing Pet Partnership (www.lostapet.org) a national nonprofit organization working to conduct research into the behavioral patterns of lost pets while providing seminars and educational materials for shelter workers and volunteers. Kat is also the CEO of Pet Hunters International (www.pethunters.com) the first-ever pet detective academy that trains and certifies technicians and search dogs to track lost pets. The Tragedy of Stolen Dogs Please cross post these homegrown tips and ask folks to add to them as they see fit. We must keep our dogs safe! Big dogs are vulnerable too, maybe not as much as the little ones, but all dogs are vulnerable to evil people. 1. Microchip your dog. 2. Train your dog to take treats only from you. When your best friend comes over with a treat, give it to your dog in your hand. 3. Do not leave your dog unattended in a fenced yard, no matter how secure, no matter how short a time. Escort your dog out to do his business and bring him back in. Or sit with him/her, enjoying the fine weather.Besides stealing dogs, people can and do throw poisoned meat over the fence, lure ANY size dog away (100 pound German Shepherd!) with raw meat, tease it, torment it, shoot it with bee bee guns and more, throw things at it. When you leave the house, bring the dog in. If the dog must be secured, there are kennels, puppy playpens for inside. Better safe even if there is a bit of pee or poop on the floor or an eaten pillow to greet you upon your return. 4. If the dog acts nervous around someone, there is a reason for it. Do not chastise the dog for this behavior. Trust his/her instincts. 5. Lock your doors! In my neighborhood, a small dog was stolen by a salesman who acted as if he were leaving. The homeowner shut the door, left it unlocked, and walked away. The dog remained by the door, barking. The salesman quickly opened the door, reached for the dog, and it was never seen again. 6. More and more states are implementing an animal abuse hotline. It's great because it doesn't involve local law enforcement or animal control who are frequently overwhelmed. Check with your particular state's government. • Report your dog missing as soon as you realize he/ she is gone. Don't wait. • Enlist your neighbors help. • Keep pictures of your dog for identification. • Check the areas closest to your house, first, like arroyos, behind bushes, where a dog may be hiding, too frightened and lost to make it's way back home • 7. Handicapped (hearing or sight impaired, for example) dogs and elderly dogs SHOULD NEVER go into a yard alone or be chained for any period of time. If you have more than one dog, they should go together and come back in quickly. Dogs need their humans more than they need blue sky and green grass. Let them look out the windows if they just have to see what's going on in the neighborhood. 8. If your dog needs socialization and exercise take him/her to the local dog park. Do not turn your door over to an acquaintance or "professional" dog walker or sitter without substantial background checking and references. Such a person can always say, "Oh, the dog ran away from me!" and you may never know what happened. 9. Teach your dog to come on command! Dog whistles are great! The most unfriendly of dogs, the least trusting of dogs, can still be bested by a vile human intent on taking advantage of it, hurting it, selling it into medical research. Don't let this happen! Please add to this list! Let's work to keep our animals safe. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Dec. 29, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.760 2009-12-27T16:33:06Z 2009-12-27T19:41:31Z

Note: Thanks to Madelyn Filipski - capemews@hotmail.com - for SHAREing this information. Feral Cat Sheltering Resources http://www.feralcat.com/shelter.html http://wayneofthewoods.com/cathouse.html http://www.feralcatcaretakers.org/Caretaking/FeedStations.html http://www.petfinder.com/journal/index.cgi?article=472 http://www.pacthumanesociety.org/core/WinterShelter.htm http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/HOW_TO_FERAL_CAT_WINTER_SHELTER http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/uploads/File/howto/shelter_plans.pdf http://www.spayandstay.org/wintershelter.htm http://www.all-creatures.org/ak/feral-shelter.html http://www.urbancatleague.org/Shelters.html http://www.flickr.com/photos/ucl/sets/72157602178455249/show/ http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/HOW_TO_PREVENTING_WATER_FROM_FREEZING MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED FOR SHELTERING: Plastic storage containers with lids...

Maureen Note: Thanks to Madelyn Filipski - capemews@hotmail.com - for SHAREing this information. Feral Cat Sheltering Resources http://www.feralcat.com/shelter.html http://wayneofthewoods.com/cathouse.html http://www.feralcatcaretakers.org/Caretaking/FeedStations.html http://www.petfinder.com/journal/index.cgi?article=472 http://www.pacthumanesociety.org/core/WinterShelter.htm http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/HOW_TO_FERAL_CAT_WINTER_SHELTER http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/uploads/File/howto/shelter_plans.pdf http://www.spayandstay.org/wintershelter.htm http://www.all-creatures.org/ak/feral-shelter.html http://www.urbancatleague.org/Shelters.html http://www.flickr.com/photos/ucl/sets/72157602178455249/show/ http://www.neighborhoodcats.org/HOW_TO_PREVENTING_WATER_FROM_FREEZING MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED FOR SHELTERING: Plastic storage containers with lids Plastic storage drawers Foam insulated boxes (may need to weighted down) Wooden boxes or crates Art canvas boards (covered in black plastic) before constructing Plywood or any wood that can be cut or used for shelter and/or foundation Milk crates Discarded materials or scraps Plexiglas-can be cut to size and a rectangular or tent-like shelter can be made with wooden flooring made from palates Wooden palates Dog igloos Covered Litter boxes (hole already cut) needs to be covered and an awning made. Any type of purchased or discarded shelter-type materials, such as drawers from desks or cabinets Lucite sheets or rolls for covering large areas for waterproofing and awnings http://www.feralcatcaretakers.org/Caretaking/FeedStations.html Madelyn Cape Mews Blog http://capemews.blogspot.com/ “For animals that are overworked, underfed and cruelly treated; For all wistful creatures in captivity that beat their wings against bars; For any that are hunted or lost or deserted or frightened or hungry; For all that must be put to death ... And for those who deal with them We ask a heart of compassion and gentle hands and kindly words.” ~Albert Schweitzer~ Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Dec. 27, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.759 2009-12-09T16:21:50Z 2009-12-09T16:23:01Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.declawing.com/htmls/declawing.htm Very thorough info about declawing with photos & diagrams This web site has extensive information about declawing, including excellent diagrams and photos that completely explain the procedure. http://www.declawing.com/htmls/declawing.htm The Cat’s Claws Unlike...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.declawing.com/htmls/declawing.htm Very thorough info about declawing with photos & diagrams This web site has extensive information about declawing, including excellent diagrams and photos that completely explain the procedure. http://www.declawing.com/htmls/declawing.htm The Cat’s Claws Unlike most mammals who walk on the soles of the paws or feet, cats are digitigrade, which means they walk on their toes. Their back, shoulder, paw and leg joints, muscles, tendons, ligaments and nerves are naturally designed to support and distribute the cat's weight across its toes as it walks, runs and climbs. A cat's claws are used for balance, for exercising, and for stretching the muscles in their legs, back, shoulders, and paws. They stretch these muscles by digging their claws into a surface and pulling back against their own clawhold - similar to isometric exercising for humans. This is the only way a cat can exercise, stretch and tone the muscles of its back and shoulders. The toes help the foot meet the ground at a precise angle to keep the leg, shoulder and back muscles and joints in proper alignment. Removal of the last digits of the toes drastically alters the conformation of their feet and causes the feet to meet the ground at an unnatural angle that can cause back pain similar to that in humans caused by wearing improper shoes. Understanding Declawing (Onychectomy) The anatomy of the feline claw must be understood before one can appreciate the severity of declawing. The cat's claw is not a nail as is a human fingernail, it is part of the last bone (distal phalanx) in the cat's toe. The cat’s claw arises from the unguicular crest and unguicular process in the distal phalanx of the paw (see above diagram). Most of the germinal cells that produce the claw are situated in the dorsal aspect of the ungual crest. This region must be removed completely, or regrowth of a vestigial claw and abcessation results. The only way to be sure all of the germinal cells are removed is to amputate the entire distal phalanx at the joint. Contrary to most people's understanding, declawing consists of amputating not just the claws, but the whole phalanx (up to the joint), including bones, ligaments, and tendons! To remove the claw, the bone, nerve, joint capsule, collateral ligaments, and the extensor and flexor tendons must all be amputated. Thus declawing is not a “simple”, single surgery but 10 separate, painful amputations of the third phalanx up to the last joint of each toe. A graphic comparison in human terms would be the cutting off of a person's finger at the last joint of each finger. Many vets and clinic staff deliberately misinform and mislead clients into believing that declawing removes only the claws in the hopes that clients are left with the impression that the procedure is a "minor" surgery comparable to spay/neuter procedures and certainly doesn't involve amputation (partial or complete) of the terminal-toe bone, ligaments and tendons. Some vets rationalize the above description by saying that since the claw and the third phalanx (terminal toe bone) are so firmly connected, they simply use the expression "the claw" to make it simpler for clients to "understand". Other vets are somewhat more honest and state that if they used the word "amputation", most clients would not have the surgery performed! Onychectomy in the clinical definition involves either the partial or total amputation of the terminal bone. That is the only method. What differs from vet to vet is the type of cutting tool used (guillotine-type cutter, scalpel or laser). Onychectomy (Declawing) Surgery The below is a clinical description of the the declawing surgery taken from a leading veterinary surgical textbbook. Contrary to misleading information, declawing is not a "minor" surgery comparable to spaying and neutering procedures, it is 10, seperate, painful amputations of the distal phalanx at the joint (disjointing). "The claw is extended by pushing up under the footpad or by grasping it with Allis tissue forceps. A scalpel blade is used to sharply dissect between the second and third phalanx over the top of the ungual crest . The distal interphalangeal joint is disarticulated (disjointed), and the deep digital flexor tendon is incised (severed). The digital footpad, is not incised. If a nail trimmer is used, the ring of the instrument is placed in the groove between the second phalanx and the ungual crest. The blade is positioned just in front of the footpad. The blade is pushed through the soft tissues over the flexor process. With the ring of the nail trimmer in position behind the ungual crest, the blade is released just slightly so that traction applied to the claw causes the flexor process to slip out and above the blade. At this point, the flexor tendon can be incised and disarticulation of the joint (disjointing) completed. Both techniques effectively remove the entire third phalanx." (Excerpted from: Slatter D; Textbook of Small Animal Surgery 2nd ed vol I, p.352 W.B. Saunders Company Philadelphia.) Complications Declawing is not without complication. The rate of complication is relatively high compared with other so-called routine procedures. Complications of this amputation can be excruciating pain, damage to the radial nerve, hemorrhage, bone chips that prevent healing, painful regrowth of deformed claw inside of the paw which is not visible to the eye, and chronic back and joint pain as shoulder, leg and back muscles weaken. Other complications include postoperative hemorrhage, either immediate or following bandage removal is a fairly frequent occurrence, paw ischemia, lameness due to wound infection or footpad laceration, exposure necrosis of the second phalanx, and abscess associated with retention of portions of the third phalanx. Abscess due to regrowth must be treated by surgical removal of the remnant of the third phalanx and wound debridement. During amputation of the distal phalanx, the bone may shatter and cause what is called a sequestrum, which serves as a focus for infection, causing continuous drainage from the toe. This necessitates a second anesthesia and surgery. Abnormal growth of severed nerve ends can also occur, causing long-term, painful sensations in the toes. Infection will occasionally occur when all precautions have been taken. "Declawing is actually an amputation of the last joint of your cat's "toes". When you envision that, it becomes clear why declawing is not a humane act. It is a painful surgery, with a painful recovery period. And remember that during the time of recuperation from the surgery your cat would still have to use its feet to walk, jump, and scratch in its litter box regardless of the pain it is experiencing." Christianne Schelling, DVM "General anesthesia is used for this surgery, which always has a certain degree of risk of disability or death associated with it. Because declawing provides no medical benefits to cats, even slight risk can be considered unacceptable. In addition, the recovery from declawing can be painful and lengthy and may involve postoperative complications such as infections, hemorrhage, and nail regrowth. The latter may subject the cat to additional surgery." The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) Two recent studies published in peer-reviewed veterinary journals (Vet Surg 1994 Jul-Aug;23(4):274-80) concluded “Fifty percent of the cats had one or more complications immediately after surgery.... 19.8% developed complications after release.” Another study (J Am Vet Med Assoc 1998 Aug 1;213(3):370-3) comparing the complications of declawing with Tenectomy concluded “Owners should be aware of the high complication rate for both procedures." Many cats also suffer a loss of balance because they can no longer achieve a secure foothold on their amputated stumps. Vet Surg 1994 Jul-Aug;23(4):274-80 Feline Onychectomy at a Teaching Institution: A Retrospective Study of 163 Cases. Tobias KS Department of Veterinary Clinical Sciences, Washington State University, College of Veterinary Medicine, Pullman 99164-6610. "One hundred sixty-three cats underwent onychectomy..... Fifty percent of the cats had one or more complications immediately after surgery. Early postoperative complications included pain..., hemorrhage...., lameness...., swelling...., or non-weight-bearing..... Follow-up was available in 121 cats; 19.8% developed complications after release. Late postoperative complications included infection...., regrowth...., P2 protrusion...., palmagrade stance...., and prolonged, intermittent lameness....". J Am Vet Med Assoc 1998 Aug 1;213(3):370-3 Comparison of Effects of Elective Tenectomy or Onychectomy in Cats. Jankowski AJ, Brown DC, Duval J, Gregor TP, Strine LE, Ksiazek LM, Ott AH Department of Clinical Studies, Veterinary Teaching Hospital, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia 19104, USA. "Objective: To compare short- and long-term complications after Tenectomy of the deep digital flexor tendons or onychectomy. Animals: 20 cats undergoing Tenectomy and 18 cats undergoing onychectomy. Procedure: Cats undergoingTenectomy or onychectomy were monitored for a minimum of 5 months to enable comparison of type and frequency of complications.Type and frequency of complications did not differ between procedures. Clinical Implications: Owners should be aware of the high complication rate for both procedures." Psychological & Behavioral Complications Some cats are so shocked by declawing that their personalities change. Cats who were lively and friendly have become withdrawn and introverted after being declawed. Others, deprived of their primary means of defense, become nervous, fearful, and/or aggressive, often resorting to their only remaining means of defense, their teeth. In some cases, when declawed cats use the litterbox after surgery, their feet are so tender they associate their new pain with the box...permanently, resulting in a life-long adversion to using the litter box. Other declawed cats that can no longer mark with their claws, they mark with urine instead resulting in inappropriate elimination problems, which in many cases, results in relinquishment of the cats to shelters and ultimately euthanasia. Many of the cats surrendered to shelters are surrendered because of behavioral problems which developed after the cats were declawed. Many declawed cats become so traumatized by this painful mutilation that they end up spending their maladjusted lives perched on top of doors and refrigerators, out of reach of real and imaginary predators against whom they no longer have any adequate defense. A cat relies on its claws as its primary means of defense. Removing the claws makes a cat feel defenseless. The constant state of stress caused by a feeling of defenselessness may make some declawed cats more prone to disease. Stress leads to a myriad of physical and psychological disorders including supression of the immune system, cystitis and irritable bowel syndrome (IBS).. "The consequences of declawing are often pathetic. Changes in behavior can occur. A declawed cat frequently resorts to biting when confronted with even minor threats. Biting becomes an overcompensation for the insecurity of having no claws. Bungled surgery can result in the regrowth of deformed claws or in an infection leading to gangrene. Balance is affected by the inability to grasp with their claws. Chronic physical ailments such as cystitis or skin disorders can be manifestations of a declawed cat's frustration and stress" David E. Hammett, DVM Moral, Ethical and Humane Considerations The veterinary justification for declawing is that the owner may otherwise dispose of the cat, perhaps cruelly. It is ethically inappropriate, in the long term, for veterinarians to submit to this form of moral blackmail from their clients. "The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights is opposed to cosmetic surgeries and to those performed to correct 'vices.' Declawing generally is unacceptable because the suffering and disfigurement it causes is not offset by any benefits to the cat. Declawing is done strictly to provide convenience for people. The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) Some veterinarians have argued that some people would have their cats killed if declawing was not an option. We should not, however, allow ourselves to taken 'emotional hostage' like this. If a person really would kill her or his cat in this case, it is reasonable to question the suitability of that person as a feline guardian, especially when there are millions of non-declawed cats living in harmony with people." Most people are vehemently opposed to declawing due to a combination of reasons: 1) because the end (owner convenience) doesn't justify the means (causing unnecessary pain to the cat); 2) because other, less harmful alternatives to declawing exist and 3) because claws are part of the nature or "catness" of cats. Overall, the view is that it is ethically inappropriate to remove parts of an animal's anatomy, thereby causing the animal pain, merely to fit the owner's lifestyle, aesthetics, or convenience without any benefit to the cat. It should be emphasized that "most people" includes virtually the entire adult population of Europe and many other countries around the world. Many countries are particularly concerned about animal welfare and have banned declawing as abusive and causing unnecessary pain and suffering with no benefit to the cat.. One highly regarded veterinary textbook by Turner and Bateson on the biology of cat behavior concludes a short section on scratching behavior with the following statement: "The operative removal of the claws, as is sometimes practiced to protect furniture and curtains, is an act of abuse and should be forbidden by law in all, not just a few countries." The following is a partial list of countries in which declawing cats is either illegal or considered extremely inhumane and only performed under extreme medical circumstances: England - Scotland - Wales - Northern Ireland - Germany - Austria - Switzerland - Norway - Sweden - Netherlands - Denmark - Finland - Brazil - Australia - New Zealand Cat Fanciers Association Declawing of Cats - CFA Guidance Statement: Approved by the CFA Board of Directors - October 1996 by Joan Miller, CFA Health Committee "CFA's Health Committee proposed the following guidance statement on the declawing of cats after review of the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association's (CVMA) position concerning declawing, and after research of scientific articles and information from the Cornell Feline Health Center, from Joan Miller's files of Cat Fancy and animal shelter materials and by talking with veterinarians, feline behavioral specialists, The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), the President of the American College of Behaviorists and the Director of Ethical Studies at the San Francisco SPCA. At the October 1996 meeting, the CFA Board unanimously approved this guidance statement on the declawing of cats: CFA perceives the declawing of cats (onychectomy ) and the severing of digital tendons (tendonectomy) to be elective surgical procedures which are without benefit to the cat. Because of post operative discomfort or pain, and potential future behavioral or physical effects, CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery." World Small Animal Veterinary Association Section 10-Non-therapeutic Surgical Operations on Pet Animals i) Surgical operations for the purpose of modifying the appearance of a pet animal for non-therapeutic purposes should be actively discouraged. ii) Where possible legislation should be enacted to prohibit the performance of non-therapeutic surgical procedures for purely cosmetic purposes, in particular; d. Declawing and defanging. iii) Exceptions to these prohibitions should be permitted only if a veterinarian considers that the particular surgical procedure is necessary for veterinary medical reasons." The Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights (AVAR) position on declawing cats: "A major concern that the AVAR has about declawing is the attitude that is evident in this situation. The cat is treated as if he or she is an inanimate object who can be modified, even to the point of surgical mutilation, to suit a person's perception of what a cat should be. It would seem more ethical and humane to accept that claws and scratching are inherent feline attributes, and to adjust one's life accordingly if a cat is desired as a companion. If this is unacceptable, then perhaps a different companion would be in order." Dr. Nicholas Dodman, Professor of Behavioral Pharmacology and Director of the Behavior Clinic at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine and internationally known specialist in domestic animal behavioral research, explains declawing: "The inhumanity of the procedure is clearly demonstrated by the nature of cats' recovery from anesthesia following the surgery. Unlike routine recoveries, including recovery from neutering surgeries, which are fairly peaceful, declawing surgery results in cats bouncing off the walls of the recovery cage because of excruciating pain. Cats that are more stoic huddle in the corner of the recovery cage, immobilized in a state of helplessness, presumably by overwhelming pain. Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee. Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint, and dismember all apply to this surgery. Partial digital amputation is so horrible that it has been employed for torture of prisoners of war, and in veterinary medicine, the clinical procedure serves as model of severe pain for testing the efficacy of analgesic drugs. Even though analgesic drugs can be used postoperatively, they rarely are, and their effects are incomplete and transient anyway, so sooner or later the pain will emerge." (Excerpted from The Cat Who Cried For Help, Dodman N, Bantam Books, New York). Declawing robs a cat of an integral means of movement and defense. Because they cannot defend themselves adequately against attacks by other animals, declawed cats who are allowed outdoors may be at increased risk of injury or death. Scratching is a natural instinct for cats and declawing causes a significant degree of privation with respect to satisfying the instinctive impulses to climb, chase, exercise, and to mark territory by scratching. Cats simply enjoy scratching. The sensible and humane solution to undesirable scratching is to modify the cat's conduct by making changes in the environment and direct the cat’s natural scratching behavior to an appropriate area (e.g., scratching post) rather than surgically altering the cat, thereby causing the animal pain, merely to fit the owner's lifestyle, aesthetics, or convenience. The fact that many cats recover from the hideous experience of declawing without untoward effects, and even though they may not hold grudges, that doesn't seem sufficient justification for putting a family member through such a repugnant experience. In short, a declawed cat is a maimed, mutilated cat, and no excuse can justify the operation. Your cat should trust you, and depend upon you for protection. Don't betray that trust by declawing your cat. Compliments of:Max’s House & S.T.A.R.T II (Save The Animals Rescue Team) http://maxshouse.com Posted on SHARE Yahoo group Dec. 9, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.758 2009-12-04T01:02:07Z 2009-12-04T01:03:08Z

Forwarded message - please reply to lmiscavage@humanesociety.org The HSUS Launches First National 'Puppy Mill' Telephone Tip Line Press Release Dogs Don’t Deserve Lifetime Confinement for the Sake of Profit (Dec. 3, 2009) – To help end the misery associated with...

Maureen Forwarded message - please reply to lmiscavage@humanesociety.org The HSUS Launches First National 'Puppy Mill' Telephone Tip Line Press Release Dogs Don’t Deserve Lifetime Confinement for the Sake of Profit (Dec. 3, 2009) – To help end the misery associated with large-scale dog breeding operations known as “puppy mills,” The Humane Society of the United States has launched a national telephone tip line and encourages callers to report suspected cruelty or unlawful activities involving such breeding facilities. The hotline, 1-877-MILL-TIP, is available to anyone with information of a possible crime involving puppy mills – but particularly welcomes information from those with “insider” knowledge, or from law enforcement officials who might be aware of such operations. “Puppy mills are a national scourge,” said Justin Scally, manager of The HSUS’ Wilde Puppy Mill Task Force. “Hundreds of thousands of dogs across the country are trapped in constant confinement their entire lives, producing puppies to profit the puppy mill owner. This tip line will be a vital tool to help free these dogs from a life of abuse.” The Wilde Puppy Mill Task Force investigates puppy mills and works with law enforcement, animal shelters and other agencies to stop abuse and to ensure enforcement of existing laws. The task force also provides expert guidance to local, state and federal agencies in the prosecution of animal abusers as it relates to the operation of puppy mills. Since its launch in June, the Task Force has assisted in the rescue of more than 1,200 dogs and puppies from abusive situations at puppy mills. The announcement of the new national tip line comes during The HSUS’ 3rd annual Puppy Mill Action Week, which is dedicated to educating the public about how to find a new best friend without supporting the abusive puppy mill industry. Puppy Mill Action Week runs Nov. 30 through Dec. 6, at the start of the peak holiday puppy buying season. The Wilde Puppy Mill Task Force is named in honor of Kenneth and Lillian Wilde, who donated a portion of their estate to The HSUS to help dogs. Thanks to the Wildes, The HSUS was able to expand the organization’s capacity to rescue more animals from the inhumane puppy mill industry and to raise national awareness of the pain and tragedy that can lurk behind the inviting visage of a young puppy for unwary buyers. Puppy Mill Facts · Dogs at puppy mills typically receive little to no medical care, live in squalid conditions with no exercise, socialization or human interaction, and are confined inside cramped wire cages for life. Breeding dogs at puppy mills must endure constant breeding cycles. · Dogs from puppy mills are sold in pet stores, online and directly to consumers with little to no regard for the dog’s health, genetic history or future welfare. Consumers should never buy a puppy from a pet store or Internet site; instead visit an animal shelter, breed rescue group, or visit a breeder’s home and meet the puppy’s parents. · The HSUS supports compassionate breeders who provide for their dog’s physical and mental well-being. Quality breeders don’t sell puppies through pet stores or over the Internet. More about puppy mills: humanesociety.org/puppymills. Media Contact: Loraine Miscavage: 301-258-1483; lmiscavage@humanesociety.org The Humane Society of the United States is the nation's largest animal protection organization — backed by 11 million Americans, or one of every 28. For more than a half-century, The HSUS has been fighting for the protection of all animals through advocacy, education and hands-on programs. Celebrating animals and confronting cruelty — On the web at humanesociety.org. The Humane Society of the United States 2100 L Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20037 humanesociety.org Celebrating Animals, Confronting Cruelty Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Dec. 3, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.757 2009-11-13T17:02:34Z 2009-11-13T17:06:03Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=685 Rabies: A Public Health Victory Billed as a “killer disease,” complete with its own awareness day and over-hyped media attention, rabies is a topic that can come up when discussing cats living...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=685 Rabies: A Public Health Victory Billed as a “killer disease,” complete with its own awareness day and over-hyped media attention, rabies is a topic that can come up when discussing cats living outdoors—often by people who mistakenly believe that feral cats don’t belong there. They might use rabies as a reason to introduce catch and kill plans to remove cats from certain areas, saying feral cats pose a public health risk because they could have rabies. Yet rabies is actually a public health victory. In fact, from 2000-2007, there were only 25 confirmed cases of rabies in America. And none of those cases were caused by cats. This month, Alley Cat Allies is proud to announce a new section in the online Veterinary Resource Center devoted to rabies. The section includes a full-range of information and facts about the rabies virus: its low prevalence in feral cats, how Trap-Neuter-Return programs help, how long rabies vaccines last, the history of rabies in the United States; and proven effective programs which target the true sources of rabies: wildlife. These facts shatter the myths about the disease. Armed with this information, you can spread the word that feral cats do not pose a public health risk. Start learning the real truth about rabies today » http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=685&srctid=1&erid=6302465 Rabies is a topic that can come up when discussing cats living outdoors— often by people who mistakenly believe that feral cats don’t belong there. They might use rabies as a reason to introduce catch and kill plans to remove cats from certain areas, saying feral cats pose a public health risk because they could have rabies. Billed as a “killer disease” with its own awareness day and hyped-up media attention any time it is mentioned, rabies is actually a public health victory—there were only 25 confirmed cases of rabies in America from 2000-2007. None of those cases were caused by cats. In that same time period, there were 27,541 cases of West Nile virus in this country, and 1,080 people died of it. Alley Cat Allies has the facts on rabies to shatter the myths about the disease—so that you fully understand and can inform others. Armed with this information, you can spread the word that feral cats do not pose a public health risk. Here you’ll find a full-range of information and facts about the rabies virus: its low prevalence in feral cats, how Trap-Neuter-Return programs help, how long rabies vaccines last and how they can negatively affect cats’ health, the history of rabies in the United States; and proven effective programs which target the true sources of rabies: wildlife. Overview: What You Need to Know about Rabies Rabies and Trap-Neuter-Return Programs Vaccinations and Feline Cancer Rabies Control in the U.S. Wildlife and Rabies Rabies Laws Cost Lives What You Need to Know About Rabies Rabies is an acute viral infection of the central nervous system. Rabies viruses can infect most mammals, and are usually spread when saliva from a rabid animal enters the body via a mucous membrane, a puncture wound, or open cut. Once inside the body, the virus travels from the initial point of contact to the nerves, spinal cord, and, finally, the brain. The incubation period between exposure to the virus and onset of symptoms for humans can last for months, and as long as treatment begins before symptoms arise rabies can be completely prevented. However, once symptoms begin, the disease nearly always turns fatal. Cases of human rabies are exceedingly rare in the U.S. Over the last decade, the U.S. has averaged one or two cases per year, and wildlife account for the majority of exposures. Only one human rabies case was reported in 2007. Wildlife is the most common source of human exposure. People most often contract rabies via a bite of a rabid animal. Rabies is transmitted through the saliva or brain tissue of an infected animal, and this happens most often via the bite of a rabid animal. Infected saliva must enter an open wound or mucous membrane to transmit the virus. Surveillance statistics show that bats are now the number one source of rabies exposure in the U.S., followed by raccoons, skunks, and foxes. “Wildlife is the biggest source of rabies in the U.S.,” says Susan Dicks, DVM, a private practitioner in Albuquerque who also has wildlife experience. In fact, more than 90% of rabies cases occur in wildlife. Feral cats do not spread rabies. The last confirmed cat to human transmission of rabies occurred more than 30 years ago. While it's possible for feral cats to become infected with rabies, feral cat colonies themselves do not generally serve as a source of the disease. “We see rabies more often in raccoons and bats than in the cat population,” says Roberta Lillich, DVM, president of the American Association of Feline Practitioners. Rabies is caused by a virus that comes in several different varieties, some of which are specially adapted to specific animal species. For instance, dogs can develop canine rabies, and this canine rabies variant can thrive in unvaccinated dog populations, which in turn may serve as an ongoing source of rabies in a community. But rabies has never developed a specific feline variant, and thus cats are merely incidental victims, says Julie Levy, DVM, PhD, at the University of Florida in Gainesville. Cat behavior may explain why rabies is relatively uncommon in felines, says Lillich. “Skunks and raccoons are major sources of rabies, and most cats who are faced with a challenge by a skunk or raccoon will run away, whereas a dog is more likely to attack,” she says. When faced with non-prey animals, “cats are generally defensive animals rather than offensive animals,” Lillich says, and the small rodents such as squirrels, chipmunks, rats, mice and rabbits that feral cats may hunt are rarely infected with rabies. Feral cat colonies managed with Trap-Neuter-Return programs do not harbor rabies, because vaccinations are proven to protect them from the disease for multiple years. The rabies vaccine has helped to make rabies a public health victory. “The rabies vaccine has been one of the big public health successes of the past 50 years,” says Dicks. Studies show that rabies vaccines induce a long-lasting immunity, and widespread immunization campaigns, education programs, and state and local laws have come close to eliminating the disease in cats and dogs. The fact that wildlife, not domestic cats and dogs, now serve as the prime sources of rabies exposure in the U.S. is proof that vaccination programs work. “Rabies will never be controlled or eliminated in the U.S. until effective programs to eradicate rabies in wildlife are carried out,” says Levy. Learn more about Wildlife and Rabies. http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=691 Rabies vaccines outlast their expiration dates. “Even a single dose of rabies vaccination provides years of protection against rabies infection,” says Levy. In one study*, 12-week-old kittens given a single rabies vaccine were completely protected against rabies four years later when they were exposed to the rabies virus, she says. “There is solid evidence that a single rabies vaccine produces multi-year immunity.” (*Note: Alley Cat Allies is against testing on animals, as it is against all cruelty toward animals. There are better alternatives to animal testing—including mathematical and computer modeling or using cultures from cells, organs, or tissues—that are precise and sophisticated.) Vaccination schedules that require one or three year boosters are based on state and local laws, not evidence about the vaccines’ efficacy, says Lillich. Most local laws require rabies vaccination either yearly or every three years and so vaccine manufacturers tailor their studies and products to these time periods. In fact, one vaccine manufacturer produces multiple versions of the identical vaccine with different labels according to the locally mandated vaccination schedules. Studies suggest that the vaccines last a minimum of three years, but due to expense and logistics, large-scale studies have never been extended past three years, Lillich says. Some trials suggest that the vaccines last beyond three years, and the Rabies Challenge Fund (RCF) was founded in 2005 to determine the duration of immunity that rabies vaccines provide in hopes of convincing lawmakers to change laws mandating excessive vaccinations. The RCF aims to extend the required interval for rabies boosters to at least seven years. Learn more about Vaccinations and Feline Cancer. http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=688 A person bitten by a rabid animal can easily be treated to avoid contracting rabies. Treatment for humans who have been exposed to the rabies virus, called post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP), is completely effective when begun before the onset of symptoms. The incubation period in humans generally lasts three to eight weeks, but can extend even longer if the infected bite occurred distant from the brain, for instance in a foot. Rabies shots do not involve a bunch of painful shots in the stomach anymore. While it’s true that rabies shots given after an exposure once consisted of numerous injections to the stomach, those days are long over. Today, rabies shots are given in the arm and are no more painful than a flu shot. The number of doses required has also changed. In June of 2009, the Advisory Committee on Immunization Practices of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention revised their guidelines to recommend a single dose of human rabies immune globulin followed by four booster shots, rather than the five boosters previously recommended. Trap-Neuter-Return programs help control rabies. By vaccinating feral cats against rabies, Trap-Neuter-Return programs, also known as TNR, prevent rabies from infecting feral cat colonies. Rabies vaccinations provide multi-year immunity, and since feral cats involved in TNR programs are vaccinated and therefore cannot acquire or transmit the virus, they pose no threats to humans or other animals. Learn more about Rabies and Trap-Neuter-Return programs. http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=687 Posted on SHARE Yahoo group 11/13/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.756 2009-10-09T18:12:23Z 2009-10-09T18:13:07Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/hiking-safety-tips.html Hiking Safety Tips Looking to escape your hometown haunts for a wilderness hike? Don't forget your pooch! Dogs love to explore our country's vast natural resources as much their two-legged counterparts—not to...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/hiking-safety-tips.html Hiking Safety Tips Looking to escape your hometown haunts for a wilderness hike? Don't forget your pooch! Dogs love to explore our country's vast natural resources as much their two-legged counterparts—not to mention, hiking is great exercise for all. But remember, a hiking trail isn't your average walk around the block. The ASPCA offers some helpful tips for keeping you and your pet safe and sound on your outdoor adventures. Extending leashes are great for wide open spaces, but if your romp is taking you through wooded areas, it's best to leave the flexi-leads at home. Otherwise, you'll probably spend more time untangling your dog's leash from trees and brush than you will enjoying your walk! If your pup is the trustworthy sort and you want to give him the opportunity to enjoy some untethered time on your hike, first make sure that dogs are allowed to be off-leash in the area you're exploring. Second, be sure that he responds reliably to your recall command— even the most obedient dog might bolt after some fascinating new critter. Hard to believe, but not everyone is as enamored with dogs as we are! Some people get very nervous around unleashed dogs. As a courtesy, have a leash on standby to clip to your dog when encountering other hikers. Whether you're using a leash or not, don't forget IDs, please! Always make sure that your current contact information, including your cell phone number, is attached to your dog's collar or body harness. If for any reason your pet gets lost, a collar and tags and a microchip will increase the likelihood that he or she will be returned to you. You never know what you may encounter on a hike—so before setting out into the wilderness, check your pet's veterinary records and make sure his vaccinations are up-to-date. Training tip: Teach your dog to come to you for treats whenever you pass by other hikers, especially if they have dogs, too. Your dog will learn to not interfere with passersby, and at the same time, you're ensuring he associates new people and dogs with good things, like tasty treats from you. If a poop falls in the woods and no one else sees it, do you get a free pass? NO! There's no such thing as a victimless poop. Please have respect for your surroundings, native wildlife and fellow hikers by scooping up after your dog and toting the baggie back to civilization if there are no trash cans around. Both of you need to stay hydrated, so bring enough water for two. Don't allow your pup to drink from puddles, ponds, lakes or streams— in other words, "nature's dog bowls"—as they may contain nasty parasites or toxins that could cause her harm. When your hike is finished, give your pooch a thorough once-over for ticks and other creepy-crawlies. Pay special attention to her belly, ears, and any skin folds and crevices. If you do spot a tick, treat the area with rubbing alcohol and remove the parasite immediately by slowly pulling it off with tweezers. Be careful when removing a tick, as any contact with its blood can potentially transmit infection to your dog or even to you. Wash the bite area and keep an eye on it for the next few days—if irritation persists, contact your vet. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 10/9/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.755 2009-10-07T17:06:23Z 2009-10-07T17:07:03Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://savingpuppies.com DogPAC - Take Action to Stop Puppy Mills DogPAC is the political action committee responsible for SavingPuppies.com and the sponsor of a new, aggressive effort to crack down on Pennsylvania puppy mills...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://savingpuppies.com DogPAC - Take Action to Stop Puppy Mills DogPAC is the political action committee responsible for SavingPuppies.com and the sponsor of a new, aggressive effort to crack down on Pennsylvania puppy mills and stop the terrible dog abuse that is happening right now. Pennsylvania has the unfortunate but well-deserved reputation as the ‘puppy mill capitol of the East,’ a result of the staggering number of puppy mills currently in business. This multi-million dollar industry is in business purely to churn out puppies. For many of the bad breeders, their dogs are nothing but commodities… never considered or treated as living beings. Unfortunately, many of the breeders allow horrible and inhumane conditions to exist for these poor, undeserving dogs. Dogs are put in cages at a very young age and NEVER are allowed out. Not once. Operations are performed by dog owners with no training, and some have been known to force pipes down the throats of their animals to stop them from barking. Under these conditions, dogs are obviously injured and many die. In fact, in July eighty abused, neglected and innocent dogs were slaughtered in a puppy mill for two reasons: because they were no longer needed, and because doing so was perfectly legal. In Pennsylvania, we have a special opportunity to make a difference for these helpless animals. Today, we have the opportunity to bring about meaningful change that will improve the quality of life for man’s best friend in the Commonwealth. That’s why we have formed DogPAC, a bi-partisan political action committee created to support action through legislation. Our goal is simple: we are creating a grassroots groundswell across Pennsylvania to change the way we allow dogs in puppy mills to be treated. Our plan is equally simple – we will enlist Pennsylvanians from every corner of this state to speak up and get involved, and we will support candidates for office who have the courage and the strength of character to stand up to special interests. When Governor Ed Rendell replaced the state’s Dog Law Advisory Board almost two years ago, he asked the new Board members to work quickly and thoroughly to help put together a legislative proposal that would help put a stop to dog abuse through puppy mills in Pennsylvania. This legislation now exists in House Bills 2525, 2532 and 499. The chairman and founder of DogPAC, Tom Hickey, Sr. was named to the new Dog Law Advisory Board, and has been instrumental in creating and advocating for the new legislative proposal in Harrisburg. Additionally, the DogPAC steering committee represents a group of dedicated, experienced and accomplished individuals who are dedicated to making this legislation into a reality for Pennsylvania’s abused animals. Of no surprise, there are numerous well-financed special interest groups actively working against the plan to stop this abuse. In fact, in July six legislators added over one hundred and fifteen amendments with the sole intent of killing this historic legislation. Until today, these special interests have never had organized, active opposition. Now, they do. Together, we will make sure that, in Pennsylvania, we send the clear message that the days of the terrible abuse of dogs in puppy mills are over! http://savingpuppies.com Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 10/7/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.754 2009-10-01T04:51:15Z 2009-10-01T04:52:10Z

Forwarded message - please repy to conncat@fairpoint.net Where to report Internet Animal Abuse / Cruelty Crimes Please cross post WHERE TO REPORT INTERNET ANIMAL ABUSE/CRUELTY/CRIMES: If you see websites depicting animal abuse, it must be reported immediately. Please don't contact...

Maureen Forwarded message - please repy to conncat@fairpoint.net Where to report Internet Animal Abuse / Cruelty Crimes Please cross post WHERE TO REPORT INTERNET ANIMAL ABUSE/CRUELTY/CRIMES: If you see websites depicting animal abuse, it must be reported immediately. Please don't contact the website owners; contact the authorities with the appropriate links and relevant material. I have written a brief introductory letter to use as needed for the authorities and the site providers (it is important to remember that the companies that host the sites will STILL have access to the information on their individual servers). Please review and keep the following information: WEBSITES FOR REPORTING: US-based crimes (complaint can originate from any country, though): http://www.ic3.gov/ http://www.ic3.gov/ http://www.usdoj.gov/criminal/cybercrime/reporting.htm Internationally-based crimes (can include US depending on your residence): https://tips.fbi.gov/ https://tips.fbi.gov/ http://www.interpol.int/public/mail/mail3.asp?id=info http://www.interpol.int/public/mail/mail3.asp?id=info TO GET WEBSITE DISABLED (as taken from below): Because abusive content often violates the user agreement that the creator of the website has signed with the Internet Service Provider (ISP), notifying the ISP about the abusive content may result in the website being removed from the Internet. To make a report to the ISP, you need to determine who hosts the website. 1. To do that, go to http://www.domaintools.com/ http://www.domaintools.com/ , enter the website URL in the "Who is Lookup" search box and click on the search button. 2. Scroll down the results page until you find the numerical Internet Protocol (IP) address assigned to the website. 3. Then go to http://www.arin.net/ http://www.arin.net/ (American Registry for Internet Numbers) and enter that IP address in the "Search WHOIS" box and click on the search button. 4. The search results page will provide information about the ISP that hosts the website. The page also might display information about how to report abuse. 5. If it does not, go to *http://www.search.org/programs/hightech/isp/ http://www.search.org/programs/hightech/isp/ * and find the complete contact information for the ISP on the list. All of this information should also be included in your FBI complaint form, where possible. If you believe an animal is in immediate harm, and if the location is known, contact local police and your local FBI branch office as soon as possible. To locate your local FBI branch, visit http://www.fbi.gov/contact/fo/fo.htm http://www.fbi.gov/contact/fo/fo.htm . You can also visit PETA's site and follow the steps provided there to complain about a website (the result will be the same as above but via different route): http://www.peta.org/actioncenter/onlinecruelty.asp http://www.peta.org/actioncenter/onlinecruelty.asp BACKGROUND: http://www.americanhumane.org/about-us/newsroom/fact-sheets/internet-animal-abuse.html http://www.americanhumane.org/about-us/newsroom/fact-sheets/internet-animal-abuse.html Tips for Reporting Internet Animal Abuse The Internet can be a powerful medium for connecting us to information to combat animal cruelty, but it also can be a haven for animal abusers who celebrate and actively advertise their shocking crimes. The best way to stop this type of abuse is to immediately report it to the proper authorities and to refrain from contacting, visiting or forwarding links to the offending sites. Why is it important to report suspected Internet animal cruelty? Reporting any type of suspected animal cruelty may save animals' lives as well as people's lives. When animals are abused, people are also at risk. The Link® between animal abuse and other forms of societal violence is well-documented. That is why it is critical to immediately report conduct on the Internet that you suspect may be -- or that you know is -- animal abuse. If I see animal cruelty on the Internet, what should I do? partnership between the FBI and the National White Collar Crime Center, at http://www.ic3.gov/ http://www.ic3.gov/ . The website will direct you to the page where you can file your complaint. At first glance, it may appear that the website will only consider complaints of Internet monetary fraud. However, IC3 is the proper venue for all Internet crimes, including animal abuse. * IC3 can best process your complaint if the information you provide is as detailed and complete as possible. This includes providing the complete URL (website address) for the website that displayed the suspected animal cruelty. * Even if you are located outside the United States, IC3 will review your report as long as the suspected abuser is located in the United States. What happens after I file a report with the IC3? * IC3 will email your report ID and password to you, along with a link to an area on the IC3 website where you can view your report * Upon receipt of your report, IC3 will carefully evaluate it and refer it to the appropriate federal, state, local or international law enforcement or regulatory agencies. Every report that is referred is sent to one or more law enforcement or regulatory agencies that have jurisdiction over the matter. At that point, the report may be assigned to an investigator. IC3 cannot guarantee that your complaint will be investigated. What else can I do? * Because abusive content often violates the user agreement that the creator of the website has signed with the Internet Service Provider (ISP), notifying the ISP about the abusive content may result in the * To make a report to the ISP, you need to determine who hosts the website. To do that, go to http://www.domaintools.com/ http://www.domaintools.com/ , enter the website URL in the "Whois Lookup" search box and click on the search button. Scroll down the results page until you find the numerical Internet Protocol (IP) address assigned to the website. Then go to http://www.arin.net/ http://www.arin.net/> (American Registry for Internet Numbers) and enter that IP address in the "Search WHOIS" box and click on the search button. The search results page will provide information about the ISP that hosts the website. The page also might display information about how to report abuse. If it does not, go to www.search.org/programs/hi http://www.search.org/programs/hightech/isp and find the complete contact information for the ISP on the list. All of this information should also be included in your FBI complaint form, where possible. * If you believe an animal is in immediate harm, and if the location is known, contact local police and your local FBI branch office as soon as possible. To locate your local FBI branch, visit http://www.fbi.gov/contact/fo/fo.htm http://www.fbi.gov/contact/fo/fo.htm . How does the law currently handle Internet animal cruelty? Because communications through the Internet have the ability to cross state lines, the Internet is largely governed by federal law. Improving the federal laws as they pertain to Internet animal abuse is critical. Currently, only a few federal laws address the issue directly: * The Crush Act (P.L.106-152) penalizes the display of acts of cruelty and sexual abuse of animals that is intended for interstate commerce. If convicted, offenders may receive up to five years in prison or a large fine. Two criteria must be met before this statute applies: 1) actual abuse must occur and 2) the website in question must intend to sell the images across state lines. In other words, a website may legally display images of animal cruelty and sexual abuse under this law as long as it is not charging visitors for access or otherwise selling the images. In 2005, the first conviction under this statute occurred in a federal district court in Virginia. * The Animal Fighting Prohibition Enforcement Act (P.L. 110-27) strengthens the ability of law enforcement to combat animal fighting by providing felony penalties for interstate commerce, import and export related to animal fighting activities, including commerce in cockfighting weapons. Each violation of this federal law is punishable by up to three years in prison and up to a $250,000 fine for perpetrators. * Internet Hunting: The Computer-Assisted Remote Hunting Act (H.R. 2711/S. 2422) is a pending federal bill introduced by Rep. Brad Sherman (D-CA) and Sen. Sheldon Whitehouse (D-RI). It seeks to prohibit knowingly making available a "computer-assisted remote hunt" (using a computer or other device, equipment or software to control the aiming and discharge of a weapon to hunt). Additional US site: http://www.usdoj.gov/criminal/cybercrime/reporting.htm http://www.usdoj.gov/criminal/cybercrime/reporting.htm Regarding International Law and Reporting International sites: http://www.animallaw.info/treaties/itceceets125.htm http://www.animallaw.info/treaties/itceceets125.htm https://tips.fbi.gov/ https://tips.fbi.gov/ http://www.interpol.int/public/mail/mail3.asp?id=info http://www.interpol.int/public/mail/mail3.asp?id=info The following are the sample letters to use for reporting. The first letter is to the relevant agency, whether IC3 or Interpol, etc. The second is for reporting the site to the internet site provider. SAMPLE INTRODUCTORY LETTER TO REPORT INTERNET CRUELTY: To Whom It May Concern: I have been notified of a particular website that depicts violent acts of animal cruelty. These images are extremely disturbing and clearly establish blatant and vicious crimes against animals; once you review the provided material, you will understand this is demonstrative of unlawful acts of animal cruelty as established by respectfully request that your resources be applied to investigating and prosecuting these perpetrators and disbanding the website. Thank you for your time and attention. SAMPLE INTRODUCTORY LETTER TO REPORT INTERNET SITE: RE: (C/P Internet site address in this space) I have been notified of the above website that depicts violent acts of animal cruelty. These images are extremely disturbing and clearly establish blatant and vicious crimes against animals; once you view the provided material, you will understand this is demonstrative of Act and relevant local and international statutes. I respectfully request that your resources be applied to remove this material and/or disbanding the website. Thank you for your time and attention. AR-NYS: A glorious dawn. ***** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSgiXGELjbc Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 9/30/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.753 2009-09-25T15:49:53Z 2009-09-25T15:50:30Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/overcoming-separation-anxiety.html Top Tips for Overcoming Separation Anxiety For many dogs, even the slightest change in daily routines can be upsetting. In response, poor Fido may start acting disruptive or destructive, especially when left...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/overcoming-separation-anxiety.html Top Tips for Overcoming Separation Anxiety For many dogs, even the slightest change in daily routines can be upsetting. In response, poor Fido may start acting disruptive or destructive, especially when left home alone. He may resort to urinating and defecating indoors, howling, chewing, pacing or trying to escape from the house or yard. When these issues are accompanied by signs of panic, distress or depression, they may indicate your pooch suffers from separation anxiety. But don’t fear—we’re here to help! When treating a dog with separation anxiety, the goal is to resolve the underlying issue by teaching him to enjoy—or at least tolerate—being left alone. Our experts have put together a list of top tips for helping your pooch overcome separation anxiety. Doctor Knows Best: The first step in tackling behavior issues is to rule out any underlying medical problems that might be causing your pet’s behavior. For example, if your pet is urinating in the house, he might be suffering from a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, diabetes or kidney disease—all of which can cause urinary incontinence in dogs. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/dog-care/dog-care-urinary-incontinence.html Conquer Fear: If your pooch suffers mild separation anxiety, counter conditioning—or helping your dog associate being alone with something good, like a tasty treat—might reduce or resolve the problem. To develop this kind of association, offer your dog a food- dispensing toy every time you leave the house. http://www.aspcaonlinestore.com/index.php?productID=1637 Dogs Need Jobs: Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially those involving anxiety. Exercise can enrich your dog’s life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal behavior. Plus, a tired dog doesn’t have much excess energy to burn when he’s left alone! Prepare for Departure: Many dogs know when you’re about to leave the house and will get anxious or prevent your departure altogether. One way to tackle “predeparture anxiety” is to teach your dog that when you pick up your keys or put on your coat, it doesn’t always mean you’re leaving. For example, put on your boots and coat, and then just sit down and watch TV instead of leaving. Take Baby Steps: If your dog’s anxiety falls more on the severe side of things, try getting your pooch used to being alone by starting small or “desensitizing” him to the cause of his fear. Begin by introducing several short periods of separation that don’t produce anxiety, and then gradually increase time spent apart over the course of a few weeks. Together We Stand: Any treatment for separation anxiety requires that your dog never experiences the full-blown version of whatever provokes his anxiety or fear. Avoid leaving your dog alone except during desensitization sessions. If possible, take your dog to work or arrange for a family member or dog sitter to come to your home during the day. Keep it Mellow: All greetings—hellos and goodbyes—should be conducted in a very calm manner. When saying goodbye, just give your dog a pat on the head, say goodbye and leave. Similarly, when arriving home, say hello to your dog and then don’t pay any more attention to him until he’s calm and relaxed. Say No to Tough Love: Anxious behaviors are not the result of disobedience or spite, so please don’t scold or punish your dog if he doesn’t overcome his fear quickly. If you punish him, he may become even more upset and the problem could get worse. Be patient, and work with your pet until he feels comfortable and enjoys spending time alone. For more information about helping your pooch overcome separation anxiety, please visit our virtual behaviorist. http://www.aspcabehavior.org/articles/40/Separation-Anxiety.aspx Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 9/25/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.752 2009-09-14T23:09:43Z 2009-09-14T23:10:29Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://dogfriendlycom-store.stores.yahoo.net/prwishbymay2.html DogFriendly.com's East Coast Dog Travel Guide Want to read about our Top-200 "Must See" Dog-Friendly Places on the East Coast, plus over 6,000 more places to visit with your dog? http://dogfriendlycom-store.stores.yahoo.net/prwishbymay2.html From...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://dogfriendlycom-store.stores.yahoo.net/prwishbymay2.html DogFriendly.com's East Coast Dog Travel Guide Want to read about our Top-200 "Must See" Dog-Friendly Places on the East Coast, plus over 6,000 more places to visit with your dog? http://dogfriendlycom-store.stores.yahoo.net/prwishbymay2.html From New England and New York through the Mid-Atlantic States and down to the Southeast and Florida, you'll find a variety of great dog- friendly lodging, B&Bs, campgrounds, RV parks, pet-friendly attractions, parks, beaches, hikes, dog parks, outdoor dining, highway guides and more. STATES INCLUDED - Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island,, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Washington D.C., Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia and Florida. Also covered are the Canadian Cities of Toronto, Montreal and Quebec. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 9/14/09 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.751 2009-09-08T20:57:35Z 2009-09-08T20:58:08Z

South Jersey - Pet-Friendly Apartment Complexes by County Thanks to Animals Friends Foundation for compiling this list 1370 South Main Road, #138 Vineland, NJ 08360 (856) 503-5572 Info@AnimalFriendsFoundation.com www.AnimalFriendsFoundation.com Pet-Friendly Apartment Complexes by County Includes Cumberland, Atlantic, Salem & Gloucester...

Maureen South Jersey - Pet-Friendly Apartment Complexes by County Thanks to Animals Friends Foundation for compiling this list 1370 South Main Road, #138 Vineland, NJ 08360 (856) 503-5572 Info@AnimalFriendsFoundation.com www.AnimalFriendsFoundation.com Pet-Friendly Apartment Complexes by County Includes Cumberland, Atlantic, Salem & Gloucester Counties in NJ Cumberland County Cumberland Green 26 N. Ladow Ave., Apt.11B Millville, NJ 08332 856-825-4050 Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. No size or other restrictions. Mill Village Apartments 301 North Wade Boulevard Millville, NJ 08332 856-327-1188 Pets are welcome with a $150 one-time fee and $35 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 35-pound weight limit. Barclay House Apartments 28 Temple Rd Vineland, NJ 08360 856-691-5614 Pets are welcome with a $500 one-time fee and $50 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 20-pound weight limit. Terrace East Apartments 2139 East Chestnut Ave. Vineland, NJ 08360 856-696-4002 Pets are welcome at no charge. Limit of two pets. 40-pound weight limit. Landis Terrace 1032 E Landis Ave Vineland, NJ 08360 856-696-4500 Pets are welcome with a $500 one-time fee and $50 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 20-pound weight limit. Chestnut Square Apartments 33 Chestnut Ave, Vineland, NJ 08360 856-691-7315 Pets are welcome with no initial fee and $25 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. "Small" pets only (no specifics). Oak Valley Apartments 1301 S Lincoln Ave # 711 Vineland, NJ 08360 856-696-1929 Cats are welcome with a $500 one-time fee and no additional rent. Limit of one cat. Spring Gardens 771 East Ave. #123 Vineland, NJ 08360 856-696-1718 Pets are welcome with a $50 one-time fee and $30 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 45-pound weight limit. Park Towne Apartments 51 W. Chestnut Ave. Vineland, NJ 08360 856-692-1711 Pets are welcome with a $50 one-time fee and $30 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 45-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Regency Apartments 752 S. East Ave. Vineland, NJ 08360 856-691-9497 Pets are welcome with a $50 one-time fee and $30 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. Spring Gardens Senior Housing 1781 S. Spring Rd Vineland, NJ 08360 856-507-0790 Pets are welcome with a $300 one-time fee and no additional rent. Limit of one pet. Letter from vet required. The Village Apartments 890 E. Walnut Rd. Vineland, NJ 08360 856-691-0808 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 70-pound weight limit. Glen Park Townhouses Wayne and Cottage Ave #111 Bridgeton, NJ 08302 856-451-9252 Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and a $250 deposit (no additional rent). Limit of two pets. 70-pound weight limit. Atlantic County The Landings 800 Falcon Drive Absecon, NJ 08201 (609) 641-2843 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $25 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 50-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Hamilton Greene 3401 Montgomery Drive Mays Landing, NJ 08330 (609) 645-7557 Cats are welcome with no up-front fee. $50 per month in additional rent for one cat or $75 per month for two cats. Limit of two cats. Salem County Laura's Glen Apartments 542 South Broadway, Suite F1 Pennsville, NJ 08070 (856) 935-2500 Pets are welcome with a $100 one-time fee plus $10 per cat per month in additional rent and/or $20 per dog per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 50-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Rivers Bend 310 North Broad Street #012 Carneys Point, NJ 08069 (856) 299-6700 Rivers.Bend@comcast.net Cats are welcome with a $150 one-time fee and $10 per pet per month in additional rent. Gloucester County The Birches 195 Fries Mill Road Turnersville, NJ 08012 856-227-7070 aysy@optonline.net Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and $40 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 25-pound weight limit. Letter from vet required. The Club at Locust Grove 1600 Club Drive Deptford, NJ 08096 (856) 845-9944 Pets are welcome with a $500 one-time fee per pet and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. No weight or breed restrictions. Forest Creek Apartments 4000 Forest Creek Lane West Deptford, NJ 08066 (856) 848-4344 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $35 per month in additional rent for one pet, or a $350 fee and $60 per month for two pets. Limit of two pets. 35-pound weight limit. Letter from vet required for dogs. Heather Ridge Apartments 454 Heather Drive North Mantua, NJ 08051 856-468-4014 800-203-3104 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $20 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. Some breed restrictions. Large dog park Holly Court Apartments 601 West Holly Avenue Pitman, NJ 08071 (856) 589-1801 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $25 per month in additional rent for one pet or $40 per month for two pets. Limit of up to three small dogs or cats or up to two bigger dogs. Inverness Apartments 1601 Shetland Way Westville, NJ 08903 (856) 686-9800 invernessapts@verizon.net Cats are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and no additional rent. Limit of two cats. Kamson Communities Laurelton Village 601 North Black Horse Pike #N-8 Williamstown, NJ 08094 (856) 629-4311 Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and $35 per month in additional rent for a dog or $25 per month for a cat. Limit of one pet. 50-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Kamson Communities Washington Way 2049 Barnsboro Road Washington Township, NJ 08012 856-227-5211 Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and $35 per month in additional rent. Limit of one pet. 50-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Rustic Village 315 South Delsea Drive Clayton, NJ 08312 (856) 881-6170 Pets are welcome with a $250 one-time fee and a $250 one-time deposit, which may be returned along with your other security deposit if there is no damage. No monthly fee. Limit of two pets. 40-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. Stonybrook Apartments 801 Cooper Street Deptford, NJ 08096 (856) 845-5255 Pets are welcome with a $200 one-time fee and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. 25-pound weight limit. Woodbury Arms 1351 Good Intent Road Deptford, NJ 08096 (856) 845-3059 Pets are welcome with a $300 one-time fee and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 35-pound weight limit. The Woods at Narraticon 611 Forest Edge Deptford, NJ 08096 856 848-3037 narraticonapts@aol.com Pets are welcome with a $300 one-time fee for pets up to 35 pounds or $600 for pets 36-85 pounds and $25 per pet per month in additional rent. Limit of two pets. 85-pound weight limit. Some breed restrictions. This list was complied as an information tool only and may not contain all the information available. By listing these complexes, AFF is by no means endorsing any of them. You are urged to contact the apartment complexes directly to confirm any information contained on this list. tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.750 2009-08-25T23:26:33Z 2009-08-25T23:27:11Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.bellaspainrelief.com/lostdog.htm How to Find a Lost Dog - Lessons learned from the successful return of Flo Jo! To Download PDF version click "How to Find a Lost Dog" http://www.bellaspainrelief.com/scart/public/database/repository/images_import/bellas/Pet_w.pdf Introduction Before your Pet...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.bellaspainrelief.com/lostdog.htm How to Find a Lost Dog - Lessons learned from the successful return of Flo Jo! To Download PDF version click "How to Find a Lost Dog" http://www.bellaspainrelief.com/scart/public/database/repository/images_import/bellas/Pet_w.pdf Introduction Before your Pet ever goes Missing Make sure your pet is wearing a collar & is micro chipped! Make a “Lost Pet” folder and keep a copy in your home and in your car Miscellaneous After your Pet goes Missing a. Time is of the essence b. Contact the microchip company c. Enlist the help of friends & family d. Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better! e. Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy f. Spread the word online g. Online lost/found h. Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible i. Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet rescue organizations in your area. j. Contact Breed Specific Rescues k. Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet classified l. Dogs tend to move in the early mornings m. If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps What to do once you have a sighting a. Get the Pet Owner to that spot b. Gather up the clothes in your hamper c. Get permission when entering private property A Few Words of Caution When You Find Your Pet Appendix A – Lost Pet Poster Template Appendix B: Factors That Influence Distances Traveled Appendix C – Finding your Pet - Checklist Introduction This guide to finding your lost pet was made possible by a Border Collie named Flo Jo, who got a little spooked and took off on her big adventure. This is a “lesson’s learned” guide that hopefully can help others quickly locate their lost pet and ensure they make it home safely. A special thank you to Sandy, Ardis, Barbara, Jennifer, Heather, Heidi, Elaine, Larry & all the members & friends of the Y2K9’s agility club for their wonderful insight on what worked best to help bring Flo Jo home. They truly took teamwork to another level and pulled together to help bring Flo Jo back to her mom, Rosie. I would also like to thank Sharon, who shared her experiences with the safe return of her boy Jesse, who was made it back home after being away for 7 days! Go to the Top Before your Pet ever goes Missing Make sure your pet is wearing a collar & is micro chipped! - A collar is the first thing a person who finds a lost pet looks for to see who the pet belongs to. This is the quickest way to identify your pet and have him returned safely to you. This is why you should ALWAYS have a collar with identification on your pet, even if he/she is in the house or just playing outside in your fenced yard. You never know if someone will leave the gate open or your dog gets a burst of energy while chasing a bunny and heads out over the fence on a new adventure! Collars can fall off, so you need to have another form of identification for your pet. This is why getting your pet micro chipped is also extremely important! - Flo Jo had a “Home Again” microchip. A microchip is a very small device, about the size of a grain of rice (12mm). You cannot see the microchip after it is implanted under the skin of your dog or cat. It is implanted under your pet’s skin in a method similar to a vaccine injection. The microchip has no internal battery or power source, so most of the time it's inactive. When the microchip scanner is passed over it, the microchip gets enough power from the scanner to transmit the pet's ID number. Since there's no battery and no moving parts, there's nothing to wear out or replace. The microchip will last your pet's lifetime. The biggest benefit of getting your dog micro chipped is the activity that happens once you report your dog missing. With HomeAgain, there “Rapid Lost Pet Alerts” are sent the minute you report your pet as lost. Your pet’s “Lost Pet” info is sent out to the entire HomeAgain “Pet Recovery Network” within a 25 mile radius. The “Pet Recovery Network”, is vets, shelters & other local pet owners, whose pet is also micro chipped and signed up for the alerts, to notify them of your lost pet. Make sure you update your pets profile with a good photo of your pet, along with any info that would be useful in identifying your pet. Make sure to include your cell phone as a contact number! Chances are you will be out searching for your pet and not at home to receive any calls if your pet is spotted. - The next time you are at the vet, have your vet scan your pet to ensure the chip show registered with your updated contact information. Pet Microchip Companies HomeAgain – (USA / 888-466-3242) - http://public.homeagain.com/index.html AKC/CAR – (USA / 800-252-7894) - http://www.akccar.org/ Microchip4Solutions (M4S ID) - Canada/North America - http://www.microchipsolutions.com AVID – (Global - 951-371-7505) - http://www.avidplc.com/ - Your pet only needs one microchip. This document is not an advertisement for HomeAgain, but they are by far the largest provider in the US. If your pet has a microchip by a provider other than HomeAgain, you can still register the number with HomeAgain to take advantage of their services. One note of caution – The “basic” package does not come with the alerting services. There is of course an “upcharge” for these services. Make sure the package you have purchased provides these alert services! All of the microchip companies offer various services to differentiate them from other companies. HomeAgain also offers medical insurance, as well as transport reimbursement of your dog was found 500 miles from home. Be sure to read the fine print on any service you purchase. AVID chips are registered to your vet's office, where they have complete descriptions, emergency contact info for family members. They also have the ability to order prescription medication. AVID might not do all the things that Home Again is now doing, but they also haven't changed the rules mid-stream or started charging annual fees. Their id tags also carry three phone numbers – owner, family emergency contact, and vet. Not all microchips are the same - AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies that create chips that are also 125 khz. Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield) introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield microchips could not be identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips in their clinics. The newer universal scanners can now read both types of chips. If you have an older microchip from Banfield (PetSmart Vet), it would not hurt to contact local shelters to make sure they have the universal scanners that can read your pets chip. If they do not, contact Banfield and request they provide the scanner to the shelter. - Conversely, if you are traveling outside the US with your pet, you should check with one of the other providers to see if your pet’s number can be registered with that service. Make sure you provide a number where you can be reached within that country if your cell phone does not work globally. This may not give you complete coverage if the local shelters/vets in the country you are visiting do not have the “Universal Scanner”. Prior to the distribution of Universal scanners, scanners were specific to the microchip provider and could not read other providers microchips. This meant that even if your dog had a microchip, it would not be detected by the scanner. Scanners are usually distributed to the local pet rescue community by the microchip vendor, so check with the local dominant company to see if they are distributing “universal scanners”. If possible, contact a local vet in the area you are visiting to see who the dominant pet microchip provider is in that area. Make a “Lost Pet” folder and keep a copy in your home and in your car – - Make sure you have a good photo of your pet and create a “Lost Pet” poster on fluorescent paper, that you can start posting at a moments notice. By having multiple copies already printed in your home, car or RV, you are ready should your pet go missing from your home or while you are away in an unfamiliar area. - If you have multiple pets, you should have a folder for each. The poster should have a good picture of your pet, along with a description, date missing, sex, height, approx. weight, coloring, notable injuries or scars and any special needs like medications. Do not put your name or address for security reasons. Offer a reward, but don’t put the amount. - If you live in an area with multiple ethnic groups, you may want to create your fliers in Spanish or whatever the prevalent language is for your area. - If possible, withhold at least one identifying characteristic. This will help identify any scammers that may try to call. Yes, it is a sad world where we have to worry about people taking advantage in our darkest hours. - Again, be sure to put down your cell phone number, since chances are you will also be away from home searching for your pet. (See Appendix A for a Template) - If you have a newer phone that allows you to store word or PDF docs, it would also be useful to keep a copy on your phone. This way you can email a copy to friends that are willing to come help, from your home computer or even while you are out searching. You can also keep a copy on a memory stick, but I would not make this my only backup copy. While convenient, I have seen them fail in the past. - You can also create a free email account with Yahoo/Google and create a draft email with these documents attached to the email. This way you can access them from any browser having Internet access. - In addition to having the poster, you should also have a list of every 24hr vet, animal shelter, police station, rescue & newspaper within your local area. You can use Google Maps or Yahoo Local to track down this information. Just enter your zip code as your default location and do searches on vet, pet rescue, police, etc….. If your pet is lost away from home, this technique is also extremely helpful for getting this info for the local area where your pet was last seen. - Write down your pet’s microchip number, as well as the service provider’s number, so they can be alerted even if you are not at home. Also keep a copy or original of the dog's rabies certificate. - Apparently there are some states that will seize the dog if you are stopped for some reason and don't have proof of vaccination. Also keep a copy or original envelope of county dog license Read the fine print on the rabies cert, or on local licenses. Neither TAG is proof - you must have the paper certificate, or in the case of the Montgomery County (PA) dog license, the little envelope that the tag comes in. Storage of documents - For documents stored in your car, be sure to store them in a water proof ziplock bag/document case. You can find the document case at outdoor retailers, such as REI. - Fold them with the print facing in, since the heat of the car can transfer the writing to the plastic case, making the document hard, if not impossible to read. - Create multiple copies of the poster so you can start posting them immediately. Keep a heavy duty stapler w/staples and tape in your car/RV so you can begin posting fliers immediately. Miscellaneous - Keep a powerful flashlight in your car/RV. If your pet is sick or injured, he/she may hide in dark places and be unable to come out to you. A strong flashlight can help you see in dark spaces. Use your flashlight for checking under houses and other dark spots. Also check storage sheds, garages, dumpsters, trash cans, and under cars. - While cell phones are handy when searching with a group, walky-talkies can be more convenient. If you are searching in a local wooded area, walky talkies could be helpful. After your Pet goes Missing (See appendix C for a condensed version “checklist”) a. Time is of the essence – Unfortunately, the longer your pet is missing, the less likely your chances of recovering your pet. Many of the tips are most useful if executed immediately after your pet has gone missing. By taking a few moments now, to put together your own “Lost Pet” package for each of your pets, you will be ready to start getting the word out about your pet’s disappearance. Hand out the flier to everyone you see in the area your pet was last seen. You never know who may be able to help you, so talk to everyone! b. Contact the microchip company – Alert the microchip company immediately, so they can start alerting their network. If you have registered your pet’s number with more than one company, be sure to alert them all! c. Enlist the help of friends & family – There truly is strength in numbers! You can’t be everywhere, so getting help is so important! If you are missing your cat, make sure you check in every nook & cranny in your home! Cat’s have been known to get themselves wedged it the smallest of spaces or locked in closets and basements. Expand your search to under porches, neighbor’s sheds, garages, etc….. While you are out in the area where you pet was last scene, you can have friends/family handing out fliers to people in the local area, visiting police stations, shelters and vets. d. Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better! - I cannot stress this enough! Telephone Poles, supermarkets, post offices, banks, pet stores, groomers, gas stations, restaurants, etc….any store window you can find! Be sure to check back often to see if the poster is missing or damaged. Sharon had contacted the local police department when Jesse went missing, but when the people who found Jesse called; the police dispatcher did not find the missing pet info right away. The officers who responded remembered seeing all the lost dog posters and figured this was the dog and contacted Sharon. Make sure you leave enough posters so all carriers & patrolmen can get a copy. It does not hurt to follow up with calls after shift changes to make sure the new dispatcher is aware of you missing pet. Stop patrolmen, delivery people, postal workers, landscapers, public works people on the street and make sure they have a copy of your flier! Go door to door and talk to people. Many people have pets and understand what you are going through. You will find many to be sympathetic and want to help. The biggest thing is to be in the area all the time giving out posters and searching. If the community sees you care, then they will care too. Talk to people and ask questions. Tell people, report it to as many relevant organizations as possible and constantly call them to check updates. Get it in the paper, put flyers EVERYWHERE. The more people who know who your dog is and what he looks like, the more chances you will have of someone spotting him and calling you or picking him up. You will be amazed at how much support you will get from the community. People will come out of the woodwork to help you and to look for the dog on their own, whether you are aware of it or not. There will be times when you feel like you are getting somewhere...and there will be times when you'll feel like you are looking for a needle in a haystack. Anything you do is a step in the right direction. Your dog is a family member. Don't give up. e. Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy – While a dog may be too scared to come out around strange people, they maybe more inclined to come out around a familiar dog pal. Bringing a 4 legged buddy can be very helpful! If you don’t have a 4 legged buddy, bringing your pets favorite squeaky toy so he/she can hear a familiar “happy” sound, can help bring him/her out if hiding in the bushes. Jesse curled up in a wooded yard behind a fence where 2 Jack Russell’s lived. They had been barking at the fence for 4 days, before their owner went over to his neighbor to see what the dogs could be barking at. That is where they found Jesse. f. Spread the word online – If you belong to any local newsgroups, post a message that you’re pet is lost. Chances are that others on the local list will forward your message and help spread the word about your pet. Send an email to all your friends and ask them to forward it on to anyone in the area. You can place a free classified on www.PetFinder.com. g. Online lost/found – There are websites like www.findtoto.com or www.SherlockBones.com , which are pay services for automated calls to neighbors in the area where your pet was last scene. They make automated calls, giving your lost dog or lost cat message describing your pet in detail, including your contact number, and our website address where the recipient can go to view your lost pet's picture and information. If you have a cat, you can try www.TabbyTracker.com. There is another site called www.fidofinder.com. I have not used this site, but have listed it in case it could be helpful. www.missingpetpartnership.org - Missing Pet Partnership is a national, nonprofit organization dedicated to reuniting lost companion animals with their owners/guardians. There website offers behavior-based lost pet recovery tips and referrals to lost pet services. You can also post on Petfinder.com, Craigslist, yahoo groups like “K9AmberAlert”. h. Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible – Calling shelters is not always enough. Many times, shelter worker may not know the difference between breeds/colors. Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is euthanized! There have been many stories of a pet being euthanized or adopted out, even though the pet owner had called the shelter about the missing pet. Make sure you leave a copy of your pets lost poster. Make friends with the shelter folks so they all know you are looking for your pet. i. Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet rescue organizations in your area. Usually there are smaller pet rescue groups that work with the local humane shelter. They often take pets from the shelter to save them from euthanasia and adopt them out to new homes. Call the rescue groups regularly to see if they have your pet. j. Contact Breed Specific Rescues – These rescues may not be local, but pull dogs from shelters if they find out about them. So if you are missing your Great Dane, be sure to contact all the Great Dane or Large Breed Rescues in your state. k. Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet classified. Believe it or not, not everyone uses the Internet on a regular basis. With consolidation in the newspaper industry, sometimes one paper owns many of the smaller papers and shares a single call center for classifieds. Rather than picking up every paper, a single call to the call center can check a number of publications classifieds in a single call. l. Dogs tend to move in the early mornings (5am-7am) or at dusk. Be sure you are out looking during those time frames. Check out Appendix B for a better understanding of your dogs behavior, based on his/her personality. m. If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps- This is helpful to get familiar with the layout, as well as giving you the ability to divide the search area up into sections between all your helpers. What to do once you have a sighting a. Get the Pet Owner to that spot - Once you have a spotting, let the owner go to that spot, all others create a wide circle around that area but let the owner quietly call. Bring a familiar 4 legged friend if possible. b. Gather up the clothes in your hamper – At dusk, leave a crate with some of your dirty clothes and some food/water. Leave more clothes around creating a scent trail back to the crate. c. Get permission when entering private property - Once the dog is sighted, if it happens on private property be SURE to ask permission of the owner to go onto the property and let him/her know with how many people will be involved. Be sure to be polite and respectful. A Few Words of Caution Unfortunately, there are dangerous people in our society who prey upon victims by using "found" pets as a ploy. • NEVER respond to a "found" pet contact alone. Take a friend or two along with you. • Arrange to meet in a public place. • NEVER invite the person to your home unless you happen to know them well. Beware of money scams. A common one is a person calls you claiming to be a long-haul trucker. He says he picked up your pet and is out of state now. He heard about your ad, flyer, etc. and says he will return your pet if you will pay to ship it home. This person does not have your pet; he is only trying to take your money. Don't wander around looking for your pet alone, either during the day or at night. Always bring a friend or relative. This is especially important in unfamiliar neighborhoods. Use the identifying information you have withheld about your pet. Please remember that you should never give out all of the identifying features of your lost pet. If the person who claims to have found your pet cannot describe these features to you, they do not have your pet! When You Find Your Pet Go around and collect up all of your old flyers. If you placed your dogs missing information online, makes sure you go back and mark them as “safe”. Thank everybody who has helped you. Give your pet a big hug and let him/her know how happy you are to have them home again! Appendix A – (Delete Appendix A and this line, format spacing as needed. Ideally use a very large sign for posters & use this size for handouts) LOST DOG REWARD Missing since: _______ Description example: Whippet (like a small greyhound) White with patches of brown/black 47 pounds - male Name: Jetzon - very friendly Please contact owner: “123-123-1234” Cell Insert your dogs photo here Appendix B: Factors That Influence Distances Traveled Copyright protected – Reprinted with permission from the Missing Pet Partnership @ www.missingpetpartnership.org There are six major factors that influence the distances that a lost dog will travel: Temperament, Circumstances, Weather, Terrain, Appearance, and Population Density. Temperament of the Dog How a dog behaves towards strangers influences how far it will travel (when lost) before someone intervenes and rescues it. There are three primary behavioral categories of lost dogs: Gregarious Dogs, Aloof Dogs, and Xenophobic Dogs. Gregarious Dogs: Wiggly-butt, friendly dogs are more inclined to go directly up to the first person who calls them. Depending on the terrain and population density where the dog was lost, these dogs will generally be found fairly close to home or will be picked up by someone close to the escape point. Gregarious dogs are often "adopted" by individuals (not shelter or rescue workers) who find them. Aloof Dogs: Dogs with aloof temperaments are wary of strangers and will initially avoid human contact. They will be inclined to accept human contact only after they have overcome fear issues and become hungry enough. While these dogs can travel a great distance, aloof dogs eventually can be enticed with food and patience, typically by experienced rescuers who know how to approach and capture a wary dog. These dogs are often recovered by rescue group volunteers, and their wariness can be easily misinterpreted as "abused." In addition, these dogs are often not recovered for weeks or months after their escape, giving them the physical appearance (thinness, injuries, stickers, ticks, etc.) that they are homeless, abused, and unloved. Xenophobic (Fearful) Dogs: Xenophobia means "fear or hatred of things strange or foreign." Dogs with xenophobic temperaments (due to genetics and/or puppyhood experiences) are more inclined to travel farther and are at a higher risk of being hit by cars. Due to their cowering, fearful behavior, people assume these dogs were "abused," and even if the dog has ID tags, they will refuse to contact the previous owner. Some of these panic-stricken dogs will even run from their owners! It may be necessary to use other dogs to get close enough to capture them or to use baited dog traps. Circumstances Surrounding the Disappearance A dog that digs out from a yard to explore a scent will tend to travel a short distance before it is found meandering and doubling back as it explores a scent. On the other hand, a dog that bolts in panic due to fireworks or thunder will take off at a blind run and can run for several miles. Weather: A dog that escapes on a beautiful spring day may travel farther than one that escapes in a snowstorm. Extreme weather conditions (snow, hail, rain, and sweltering heat) will decrease the distances that lost dogs travel. Terrain: A dog that escapes in a residential area will not travel as far as a dog that escapes in a mountainous area. Fences that create barriers will influence a dog's travel since a dog will tend to take the "path of least resistance" when traveling. Cactus, heavy brush, and steep cliffs can be barriers that influence whether a dog continues on a path or changes directions. Appearance of the Dog: What a dog looks like can influence how quickly it will be picked up by a rescuer. In general, most people are less inclined to pull over and attempt to grab a loose Pit Bull they perceive as being "aggressive" than they would a "friendly" Labrador Retriever. Also, size matters as people are more inclined to pick up small dogs because they look vulnerable and are easier to transport and house than large dogs. In addition, people are more likely to attempt to rescue a purebred dog that they perceive to have value than a mixed breed dog. When average motorists see a mixed breed dog trotting down the sidewalk, their impression is often that the dog belongs in the neighborhood or that it is a homeless stray. But when those same people see a Boston Terrier, they are inclined to believe that, because it is a "valuable purebred dog," it must be a lost pet. Population Density: A dog that escapes in Manhattan will travel a shorter distance than will a dog that escapes in the Rockies or in rural farmland. When dogs escape into areas with a high number of people, their chances of being found close to the escape point are increased. But in areas with an extremely low number of people, dogs tend to travel farther and their chances of being found close to the escape point are decreased. A dog that escapes in the middle of the night will travel farther before being seen than a dog that escapes during rush hour traffic. Owner Behaviors That Create Problems Dog owners often behave in ways that actually inhibit their chances of recovering their lost dogs. Some develop a "wait and see" approach (believing their dog will return home like Lassie) and by the time they start actively looking, the vital first few hours to locate the dog (or witnesses who saw the dog) are gone. Others develop "tunnel vision" and fail to find their dog because they focus on wrong theories. They assume their dog was "stolen and sold to research" when in fact their dog might have been rescued and put up for adoption through a local adoption event. They experience "grief avoidance" and quickly give up their search effort because they really believe they will never see their dog again. They feel helpless and alone, often discouraged by others who rebuke them and tell them "it was just a dog" and "you'll never find your dog." In addition, the level of human animal bond (HAB) will influence the recovery efforts. People with a strong HAB will go to extremes to find their lost dog. They will accomplish the "impossible" task of visiting all shelters, posting flyers, and contacting rescue groups while maintaining a full-time job and other family commitments. On the other hand, people with a weak HAB will quickly become discouraged, assume they will never see their dog again, and will stop searching. Rescuer Behaviors That Create Problems People who find stray dogs often misinterpret the dog's behavior; they assume that the cowering, fearful dog was "abused" when in fact the dog has a xenophobic temperament and has been shy and fearful since it was a puppy, due to genetics and puppyhood experiences. Dogs found in rural areas are often assumed to be "dumped" and homeless; many rescuers never think this could be a dog that was lost. Some people who find a stray dog that does not have a collar automatically assume it is "homeless" and therefore they immediately work to place the dog rather than attempt to find the dog's owner. In addition, the first place the owner of a lost dog will search for his or her dog - the local shelter - is typically the last place that someone who finds a loose dog will take it (due to the fear of euthanasia)! Copyright protected – Reprinted with permission from the Missing Pet Partnership @ www.missingpetpartnership.org Appendix C – Finding your Pet - Checklist ____ . Search all areas of your home/yard ____ . Contact the microchip company ____ . Enlist the help of friends & family ____ . Post fliers everywhere – the bigger/brighter the better! ____ . Enlist the help of a 4 legged buddy ____ . Spread the word online ____ . Online lost/found ____ . Personally visit local shelters, DAILY if possible ____ . Ask Animal Control, humane societies, and shelters about pet rescue organizations in your area. ____ . Contact Breed Specific Rescues ____ . Check out all the local papers for Found Pets and place a Lost Pet classified ____ . Dogs tend to move in the early mornings/dusk, make sure you are out there ____ . If in an unfamiliar area, get a few local maps What to do once you have a sighting ____ . Get the Pet Owner to that spot ____ . Gather up the clothes in your hamper ____ . Get permission when entering private property Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Aug. 25, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.749 2009-08-21T17:50:12Z 2009-08-21T17:51:08Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=457&srcid=456 Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) Feline immunodeficiency virus is a retrovirus in the lentivirus subfamily. The primary mode of transmission is through bite wounds. Because neutered cats fight much less than intact cats,...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=457&srcid=456 Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) Feline immunodeficiency virus is a retrovirus in the lentivirus subfamily. The primary mode of transmission is through bite wounds. Because neutered cats fight much less than intact cats, transmission of FIV can be significantly reduced through neuter programs. Under natural conditions, the virus is not transmitted through nursing, mutual grooming, sharing food/water bowls, or from mother to kitten. Feral cats and owned cats contract FIV at an equally low rate. An estimated 3-4% of all free-roaming cats1 become infected and carry the virus, but only a small portion of these cats develop symptoms related to FIV. Most FIV-infected cats live many years–sometimes their entire lives—without any visible effects from the virus. In cats who develop FIV-related disease, the virus can cause varying degrees of immune system dysfunction. This most often manifests as a reduced ability to fight infection. For example, the classic presentation is an adult male cat with recurrent abscesses that take longer to heal than would be expected. Other types of infections caused by viruses, bacteria, and fungi may also become more serious and take longer to resolve. Progression of the Virus After initial infection, the virus spreads to the cat's lymph nodes, causing them to become enlarged. Fever can develop and last for several days. Some cats experience a transiently reduced white blood cell count. During the second stage of infection, the cat is often completely asymptomatic for many years. The virus typically remains dormant for years, which may explain why many cats live a lifetime without symptoms. If disease develops, this will occur during the third stage. In this stage the cat may develop signs of immunodeficiency and secondary conditions, such as opportunistic infections, stomatitis, ocular inflammation, cancer, and respiratory tract infections. FIV-infected cats might also develop persistent intestinal or urinary tract infections, neurological problems, kidney disease, or tumors. All of these conditions also occur in cats without FIV infection, so an association with FIV is often speculative. A diagnosis of FIV infection is not cause for alarm. Since the virus has a long incubation period, a cat who tests FIV-positive may live free of FIV-related disease for a lifetime. Furthermore, FIV-vaccinated cats are indistinguishable from FIV-infected cats. Learn more about Coo, Alley Cat Allies’ FIV-positive office cat. Against FIV Testing Alley Cat Allies does not support testing feral cats for FIV. Besides the reasons stated previously—low rate of disease, low likelihood of transmission, long lifespan—the cost of testing is substantial. We believe that funds are more effectively invested in neutering, rather than FIV testing. Moreover, FIV test results can be false, inaccurate or inconclusive: Standard tests only detect antibodies against the virus, not the virus itself. The presence of antibodies does not mean the cat is infected. Positive FIV tests in kittens under six months of age should not be interpreted as FIV infection. Kittens are rarely infected but may test positive because antibodies can be passed from infected mothers through nursing. For more accurate interpretation, FIV-positive kittens under six months of age should be retested between eight and 12 months of age, when maternal antibodies have declined. Current FIV tests cannot distinguish between cats who are infected with FIV, vaccinated against FIV, or both infected and vaccinated. Fel-O-Vax® FIV vaccine, approved in 2002, stimulates the production of antibodies that are indistinguishable from those that develop from natural infection. Care and Treatment There is no cure for FIV, but a cat who tests FIV-positive may live free of FIV-related disease for his lifetime. By carrying out spay/neuter programs, the risk of transmission will be greatly reduced. Read more complete information about selection and interpretation of FeLV and FIV tests and management suggestions for infected cats from the American Association of Feline Practitioners. 1 "Prevalence of feline leukemia virus infection and serum antibodies against feline immunodeficiency virus in unowned free-roaming cat," JAVMA, Vol 220, No. 5, March 1, 2002 Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Aug. 21, 2009 tag:www.shelterandrescue.org,2009://1.748 2009-08-13T14:56:00Z 2009-08-13T14:56:45Z

Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.smartmoney.com/spending/rip-offs/10-things-your-veterinarian-wont-tell-you-18069/?hpadref=1 10 Things Veterinarians Won't Tell You SMARTMONEY MAGAZINE by Kelly Barron (Author Archive) Published August 7, 2009 1. “Good thing you love Sparky like a son. His care could cost as much.”...

Maureen Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.smartmoney.com/spending/rip-offs/10-things-your-veterinarian-wont-tell-you-18069/?hpadref=1 10 Things Veterinarians Won't Tell You SMARTMONEY MAGAZINE by Kelly Barron (Author Archive) Published August 7, 2009 1. “Good thing you love Sparky like a son. His care could cost as much.” After a New York City taxi struck Jessica Malionek’s dog, Mojo, flinging him 30 feet in the air, she spent $4,000 for veterinarians to perform emergency treatment and then lifesaving surgeries on her beloved companion. “It was like they were treating a person,” Malionek says. These days veterinary medicine can be every bit as sophisticated as human health care—and the costs reflect it. The amount of money that pet owners spend on vets is expected to have reached $10.8 billion in 2008, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. And per-visit costs are skyrocketing: From 2002 to 2006, the average cost of a veterinary visit for a dog rose from $172 to $219; for cats, from $133 to $172. Why the steep price hikes? Chris Green, an attorney and member of the American Veterinary Medical Law Association, says vets are happily obliging owners who want to keep their pets alive at all costs. That means paying for the latest high-tech procedures, such as feline kidney transplants, cancer surgery for rabbits, CAT scans, and even MRIs. There are also more aged pets today, which require more care. 2. “Vaccinating your pet may do more harm than good.” For years the primary reason for seeing a veterinarian was to get your pet vaccinated against a host of diseases ranging from distemper to rabies, either with individual vaccinations or “combo wombo” shots that could cover seven separate conditions. Indeed, annual vaccinations have been an economic bulwark for many vet practices. However, some veterinarians say they’re not only unnecessary but can actually be harmful in some cases. Marty Goldstein, a veterinarian in South Salem, N.Y., says he sees a range of vaccination-related reactions in animals, everything from cancerous sarcomas to epilepsy. Another reason to think twice about certain vaccines: The immunity provided by some of them can last well beyond a year and even as long as the pet’s lifetime, Goldstein says, negating the need for some annual shots. Both the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and the American Animal Hospital Association now say vaccinations should be assessed yearly and tailored to an animal’s age, health, and lifestyle. For example, an indoor cat with limited exposure to some diseases may not ever need certain common vaccinations, says W. Jean Dodds, an immunologist and veterinarian with Hemopet in Garden Grove, Calif. Only a veterinarian who has access to your pet’s complete medical history can determine which vaccinations should be administered and how they’ll be most effective. Also, talk with your vet if you’re considering traveling with your pet. 3. “I have more complaints filed against me than a used-car lot—not that you’ll ever know about it.” When she picked up her kitten, Pumpkin, from the veterinarian after a routine spaying, Mount Pleasant, S.C., resident Marcia Rosenberg was stunned to find the cat nearly comatose. Soon Pumpkin’s body was wracked with seizures, and her stomach swelled. Rosenberg rushed Pumpkin to another vet, who saved the cat, but the distraught owner called her state’s veterinary board to complain. Told that the board had no procedure for alerting consumers about disciplinary actions taken against incompetent vets, Rosenberg mounted a successful campaign to have such actions posted on the South Carolina veterinary board’s website. Tracking complaints against vets often requires a bit of detective work. Some state veterinary boards list disciplinary actions against vets, while others do not. And complaints typically aren’t disclosed until a board investigation and judicial ruling have determined a case of wrongdoing. On her own, Rosenberg says she was able to find that the veterinarian had previously had his license suspended in Ohio and since then had more than a dozen complaints against him in South Carolina. 4. “Real dentists are for people.” When John James, an academic adviser in Los Angeles, took his geriatric cockapoo, Amber, to his veterinarian for a chipped tooth, the vet told him his dog needed a root canal and that he could take care of it. Amber died during the procedure. James’s lawyer later learned that the veterinarian’s canine dentistry training came from a weekend course. What’s more, elderly Amber should never have been a candidate for the intensive procedure. How do you know whether your pet is in the hands of a skilled specialist? The AVMA lists 37 specialties for veterinarians, ranging from anesthesiology to dermatology. Legitimate specialists have done graduate work in their specialty and have been certified by an industry medical board. Some vets may claim a “special interest” in an area, meaning they’ve taken some continuing education, but they aren’t necessarily certified specialists, says Peter Weinstein, former president of the California Veterinary Medical Association. If your pet needs a specialist, ask the vet about his educational background and certification. Also, inquire about how many specialized procedures he performs annually; having a “special interest” may be fine if the vet has had enough experience. 5. “Surgery’s a cinch. It’s the overnight stay you should be worried about.” We’d all like to think a beloved pet will be tenderly nurtured through the night after surgery at a veterinary office or hospital. But many vets don’t staff their offices overnight—it’s important to ask about what happens in the wee hours. Laura Ireland Moore, an animal law attorney in Portland, Ore., says she represented a client who took her dog to the vet after stitches from a routine spaying came undone. The veterinarian repaired the stitches with metal sutures but neglected to put a cone over the dog’s head to protect the wound during an overnight stay. The office was unattended through the night, and by morning the animal had chewed through the sutures—as well as 15 feet of its own intestines. The agonized dog had to be put down. The moral of this unpleasant story: “You should definitely check if anyone will be on the premises overnight,” Moore says. If the facility doesn’t have a night attendant or if you don’t trust his credentials—a late-shift babysitter may or may not be a veterinarian or even a vet technician—you should ideally find a facility where a licensed vet stays over, Moore advises. 6. “Personally, I think declawing is inhumane. But, hey, it’s your dime.” Animal activists have long held that cosmetic and so-called convenience surgeries, such as declawing a cat or clipping the ears of a Doberman, are unnecessary and cruel. That argument is gaining broader support, as declawing, in particular, has come under fire. While the surgery—which many vets say is the equivalent of toe amputation—will usually keep a cat from scratching the furniture, it may cause other physical and behavioral problems, according to veterinarian Jean Hofve, ranging from lameness and joint stiffness to behavioral issues such as reclusiveness and biting. In keeping with these concerns, the American Animal Hospital Association now recommends that its members inform clients about the risks of nonvital surgeries and the alternatives. “A lot of vets still feel they should do what the client wants,” says Teri Barnato, national director of the Association of Veterinarians for Animal Rights. Many vets fear losing clients or having animals abandoned. If you’re considering a cosmetic or convenience procedure, ask your veterinarian if he’d perform the surgery on his own pet. And weigh the alternatives—instead of declawing, you could get a scratching post and keep your cat’s claws trimmed. Another humane alternative: vinyl nail caps called Soft Paws, which were developed by a vet (go to www.softpaws.com for more information). 7. “Go ahead and sue—it’ll hurt you more than it hurts me.” When Marc Bluestone’s dog Shane died after being treated for seizures at All- Care Animal Referral Center in Fountain Valley, Calif., Bluestone decided to sue. In a precedent-setting ruling, a jury awarded him $39,000 for malpractice, claiming he and his dog had a “special and close relationship.” (All-Care appealed the ruling, to no avail.) But that’s an exception—suing a veterinarian is at best a dodgy financial undertaking. The reason is that under the law, pets are considered property, says Ireland Moore, the animal lawyer in Oregon. More often than not, that means court awards are for the straight market value of the pet, which could be as little as $10 for your beloved mutt. Meanwhile, suing a vet is likely to be an expensive undertaking. If your pet becomes the victim of a medical mishap, know that your legal recourse is anything but guaranteed. “It’s not always the most economically smart thing to do,” Moore concedes. 8. “The key to my thriving practice? Location, location, location.” While a referral is probably the best way to select a veterinarian, many people pick one simply because the office is around the corner. Indeed, according to the AVMA, only about 11 percent of cat and dog owners choose their vets through referral. That could be a mistake. If you have an aging kitty and the neighborhood vet doesn’t have geriatric expertise, it won’t be a good fit, says Nancy Peterson, a registered veterinary technician and a spokesperson for the Humane Society of the United States. Peterson adds that in her experience few pet emergencies happened during office hours anyway, nullifying some of the benefits of geographic convenience. So how best to assess a vet? First, check out the facility. Are the staff friendly? Is the place clean? Look into the veterinarian’s educational background, board certification, and record both with the state’s medical board and the local humane society. Beyond that, veterinarian Elliot Katz, president and founder of In Defense of Animals in San Rafael, Calif., recommends studying the veterinarian’s body language with animals. Make sure she greets animals in a friendly way, approaching them slowly and touching them gently. And if you have a special request, such as wanting to hold your pet when it gets vaccinated, make sure you and your vet are on the same page. 9. “I haven’t the foggiest idea why your dog’s acting crazy.” The study of animal behavior is a relatively new specialty in veterinary medicine. In fact, the AVMA lists only 38 board-certified animal behavior specialists on its website, compared with 1,675 internal medicine specialists. Yet many pet owners get rid of their cats and dogs, or even put them to sleep, for annoying behavior ranging from barking to eating drywall. Daniel Aja, a veterinarian in Traverse City, Mich., and former president of the American Animal Hospital Association, recalls one client who brought in a St. Bernard to be euthanized because of severe separation anxiety. Once when the owner left the house, the dog jumped through a plateglass window to chase after him. Aja convinced the owner to treat the pup with antidepressants and had behaviorists on his staff counsel the client on how to work with his dog. Not all vets will make the extra effort to diagnose a behavior problem, which entails taking a complete medical and behavioral history and spending hours with a pet. What do you do if Champ continues to chase his tail? Ask your vet if he has experience with behavioral issues. If not, request a referral. Or find a trainer through the Animal Behavior College online, at www.animalbehaviorcollege .com/dog_trainer_search.asp. 10. “Our technology may be state-of-the-art, but our industry regulations are still in the Dark Ages.” While veterinarians and animal hospitals are increasingly working with the same level of sophistication as human doctors and hospitals, the regulatory oversight within the field is far less stringent. Under federal law, human hospitals must be inspected, but it’s possible for a veterinary hospital to operate for years and never undergo an independent inspection, Aja says. The American Animal Hospital Association does accredit animal hospitals, assessing them on more than 800 different standards ranging from organization of medical records to diagnostic capabilities. But only about 15 percent of hospitals in the U.S. and 7 percent of hospitals in Canada have been accredited by the organization. Some states, such as California, perform their own inspections on vet hospitals, checking them for everything from outdated drugs to unsanitary conditions. The upshot is that even seemingly petty requirements can have lifesaving results: After a California mandate required vets to have “emergency lighting” on hand, one veterinarian used a flashlight to finish surgery when a blackout hit. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - Aug. 13, 2009