http://www.shelterandrescue.org/ en Copyright 2009 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 10:01:26 -0500 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/ http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?ID=86&sid=1 Summer Pet Care When the lazy days of barbecues and swimming pools roll around, you can make them even better by sharing them with your favorite pet. By following a few summer pet safety tips, you can keep your animal friends healthy and enjoy the months of sun and fun. Never leave your pet in the car. Though it may seem cool outside, the sun can raise the temperature inside your car to 120 degrees Fahrenheit in a matter of minutes, even with the windows rolled down. If you need to run some errands, leave the furry ones at home. As you're outside enjoying the warm weather, keep your pet leashed. It will keep her from getting lost, fighting other animals, and eating and drinking things that could make her sick. This tip isn't just for dogs-- even cats can learn to walk on a leash if you train them. (See How can I teach my cat to walk on a leash?) http://www.healthypet.com/faq_view.aspx?id=77 Water, water everywhere. Whether you're indoors or out, both you and your pet need access to lots of fresh water during the summer, so check her water bowl several times a day to be sure it's full. If you and your furry friend venture forth for the afternoon, bring plenty of water for both of you. Pets need sunscreen too. Though all that fur helps protect her, your pet can get sunburned, particularly if she has light skin and hair. Sunburn in animals can cause problems similar to those it can cause in people, including pain, peeling, and skin cancer. So keep your pet out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and when you do go out, rub a bit of sunblock on unprotected areas like the tips of her ears, the skin around her lips, and the tip of her nose. Say no to tangles. Keeping your pet well groomed will help her hair do what it was designed to do: protect her from the sun and insulate her from the heat. If she has extremely thick hair or a lot of mats and tangles, her fur may trap too much heat, so you may want to clip her. (SeeShould I shave my thick-furred dog in the summer?) http://www.healthypet.com/faq_view.aspx?id=17 Watch out for antifreeze. Hot weather may tempt your pet to drink from puddles in the street, which can contain antifreeze and other chemicals. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that animals like, but it's extremely toxic. When you're walking your pet, make sure she doesn't sneak a drink from the street. Be cautious on humid days.Humidity interferes with animals' ability to rid themselves of excess body heat. When we overheat we sweat, and when the sweat dries it takes excess heat with it. Our four-legged friends only perspire around their paws, which is not enough to cool the body. To rid themselves of excess heat, animals pant. Air moves through the nasal passages, which picks up excess heat from the body. As it is expelled through the mouth, the extra heat leaves along with it. Although this is a very efficient way to control body heat, it is severely limited in areas of high humidity or when the animal is in close quarters. Make sure your pet doesn't overexert herself. Though exercise is an important part of keeping your dog or cat at a healthy weight, which helps her body stay cool, overdoing it can cause her to overheat. Keep the walks to a gentle pace and make sure she has plenty of water. If she's panting a lot or seems exhausted, it's time to stop. Take it easy on pets that can't deal with the heat. Elderly, very young, and ill animals have a hard time regulating their body temperature, so make sure they stay cool and out of the sun on steamy summer days. Dogs with snub noses, such as Pekingese, pugs, and bulldogs, have a hard time staying cool because they can't pant efficiently, so they also need to stay out of the heat. Overweight dogs are also more prone to overheating, because their extra layers of fat act as insulation, which traps heat in their bodies and restricts their breathing capabilities. Bring them inside. Animals shouldn't be left outside unsupervised on long, hot days, even in the shade. Shade can move throughout the afternoon, and pets can become ill quickly if they overheat, so keep them inside as much as possible. If you must leave your pet in the backyard, keep a close eye on her and bring her in when you can. Keep an eye out for heatstroke. Heatstroke is a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has heatstroke (see "Signs of Heatstroke," below), you must act quickly and calmly. Have someone call a veterinarian immediately. In the meantime, lower the animal's body temperature by applying towels soaked in cool water to the hairless areas of the body. Often the pet will respond after only a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again with his temperature soaring back up or falling to well below what is normal. With this in mind, remember that it is imperative to get the animal to a veterinarian immediately. Once your pet is in the veterinarian's care, treatment may include further cooling techniques, intravenous fluid therapy to counter shock, or medication to prevent or reverse brain damage. Even with emergency treatment, heatstroke can be fatal. The best cure is prevention, and Fido and Fluffy are relying on you to keep them out of harm's way. Summer does not have to be fraught with peril-- with ample precaution, both you and your furry friends can enjoy those long, hot dog-days of summer. Signs of Heatstroke Panting Staring Anxious expression Refusal to obey commands Warm, dry skin High fever Rapid heartbeat Vomiting Collapse Posted on SHARE Yahoo Group July 3, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/07/summer_pet_care.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/07/summer_pet_care.html Seasonal Health Issues Fri, 03 Jul 2009 10:01:26 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.wildbirdfund.com/ NYC - Resource for baby or injured birds - Wild Bird Fund In NYC, If anyone finds baby or injured birds they can contact: The Wild Bird Fund, Inc. c/o Animal General 558 Columbus Avenue [ Columbus and West 87th] New York, NY 10024 646-306-2862 Hours: By appointment only. Monday through Saturday, from 1pm to 3pm. Rita McMahon and Karen Heidgerd are the key rehabilitators for New York City's wild birds. Rita is a television consultant who lends her time to save local birds. Karen is the Practice Manager at Animal General. Both of these caregivers are licensed to rehabilitate wilds birds by the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. They have received a Federal Migratory Bird Permit License issued by the Department of the Interior. They have the full support of the veterinarians on staff as well as the full use of all medical facilities at Animal General. All of Animal General's staff constitutes a network of dedicated people who volunteer emergency and rehab care for city birds and wildlife. Animal General donates all costs for the medical services and we depend on donations from loving rescuers to provide food and medicine for the birds while they recuperate. Caring members of the community provide additional foster care, donations, and chauffeuring services for patients to other rehab centers. The rehabilitators at Animal General see wild bird cases by appointment only Monday through Saturday, from 1pm to 3pm. Please call us at 646-306-2862. We also encourage you to contact us if you have an interest in fostering wildlife in need. For treatment of exotic birds and small mammals, please visit our Center for Avian and Exotic Medicine on Columbus between 87th and 88th Streets. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - July 1, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/07/nyc_resource_for_baby_or_injur.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/07/nyc_resource_for_baby_or_injur.html Birds Wed, 01 Jul 2009 11:28:30 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.animalsheltering.org/resource_library/magazine_articles/mar_apr_2009/the_behavior_department_enriching_a_shelter_dogs_experience.html Enriching a Shelter Dog's Experience THE BEHAVIOR DEPARTMENT: ENRICHING A SHELTER DOG’S EXPERIENCE By Liz Marsden Providing stimulation is easier than it might seem It’s bedtime at my house, and my dogs know it. Their clue isn’t the waning hour, or any of the little before-bedtime rituals I go about as the hour gets late. Their tip-off is the clink of a certain white ceramic jar on the kitchen counter, where the Kongs are kept. Lily the cattle dog immediately dashes upstairs to dive into her crate. Dakota the Lab does a world-class sit/stay without me even glancing in her direction. Forrest, my other cattle dog, who’s much more casual about this whole routine, simply chills in his favorite resting place on the hallway rug. As I take the three minutes required to smear globs of peanut butter into the openings of the hollow rubber toys, the dogs anticipate the apex of their night. They each take their bedtime treats with all the finesse they can muster, then settle down to the task of licking their Kongs so clean of peanut butter that I won’t see any of them stir for about a half hour. Then, their palates satiated, they will all go to sleep for the night. That little, three-minute investment of time that gives my band of pups so much satisfaction is known as environmental enrichment. Kinds of enrichment can vary, but enrichment of captive animals (and yes, our pet dogs can be considered such) certainly encompasses any housing change, toy/object, or activity that: - Allows animals to engage in speciesappropriate activities - Relieves stress and boredom - Improves quality of life - Decreases destructive behavior and frustration. In the federal Animal Welfare Act amendments of 1985, two mandates were enacted to improve environmental enrichment for animals in regulated facilities such as laboratories, zoos, etc.: minimum daily exercise for dogs, and “environmental enhancement to promote the psychological well-being of nonhuman primates.” Progressive zoos and wild animal parks, and even laboratories where animals are used for experimentation, are now employing environmental enrichment for animals other than primates and dogs. Overwhelmed? We Get It! As a shelter caregiver and professional dog trainer, the power and importance of enrichment is something I’ve been keenly—often painfully— aware of for as many years as I’ve been involved with dogs. Working in shelters, I’ve seen many a barren cage or crate where dogs were expected to be satisfied with nothing more than barking at the other dogs, pacing, jumping at the sides of their enclosures, waiting patiently for someone to come and let them out, staring into space or sleeping the long hours away. Most disturbingly, I’ve witnessed the effects of inactivity and isolation— tail-chasing, selfmutilation, aggression, and depression, to name a few. As much as I hate to see such situations, I know why they happen. Many animal shelters are overwhelmed, underfunded, truly chaotic places where it’s hard to avoid working at least two or three hours of overtime every night if you’re involved in animal care. Someone always needs something. Shelter workers are maxed-out by their daily challenges; at hectic times, dozens of new dogs needing care and triage can arrive daily. Having been there myself, I can sympathize. Yet I still believe shelters can provide dogs with enrichment on a daily basis. Simple Solutions Over the years, it’s been fun to collect some incredibly easy ways shelters of any size and budget can add enrichment activities to the dogs’ daily routine. My company, Mission Dog, was founded on these ideas, and its goal is to put these tools into the hands of the many progressiveminded shelter workers who regularly ask themselves: “What more can we do to make shelter life better for our dogs?” The answer to that question is: More than you might think! It can be as simple and cost-free as collecting used plastic peanut butter, yogurt, and cream cheese containers and distributing them to the most active, bored dogs in the kennel. Used, rinsed soda or water bottles can become treat-dispensing toys. It’s beyond gratifying to place something as simple as an old peanut butter jar in the cage of a pacing, barking 9-month old Labrador and see him settle right down with his new treasure. Later, you’ll see him flipping his new toy (now licked clean) around the kennel, chasing it as it scuttles and bounces. A trainer friend and colleague never recycles a plastic container or cardboard box without first using it as an enrichment toy for her two dogs, Sweets and Tater. Those lucky dogs perform a perfect sit, then they get to lick the vestiges of cream cheese from the tub, or gravy from the TV dinner tray, or simply wrangle a few kibbles out of a cardboard milk carton before it gets thrown out. My friend knows that she’s providing the dogs with a suburban equivalent of two classic dog behaviors: foraging and shredding. It’s good to give a dog any chance to simply be more of a dog. And better still, shelters can do these things at little to no cost. Staff and volunteers who normally would throw out that little plastic tray can instead spend a few minutes to prepare a great gift for a bored shelter dog. Ask and You Shall Receive For shelters that have donation “wish lists,” being specific about some of these items can bring tons of great, durable toys and chewies into your dog kennels. Holiday wish lists are a great way to gather a year’s worth of toys that you can use over and over. Our time-tested favorites are hard rubber Kongs, which come in sizes perfect for toy to giant dogs. We held volunteer Kong-stuffing parties and froze the toys with their treats and peanut butter filling so they’d be there for staff to distribute on a daily basis. I’m a vegetarian, but tasty meat bits are still a big motivator for dogs. Hard, sterilized beef “marrow bones” can be stuffed, frozen and reused for months—and you can find free-range bones that are more humane. We found that we could throw all of these toys- bones included -in with our dog laundry and they’d come out good as new. Nylabones are another sturdy, reusable, and washable toy that’s perfect for puppies and exuberant chewers of all ages. Kong and Nylabone even have shelter discount programs well worth checking out. (Visit kongcompany.com and click on “Find Kong,” then “Kong seconds.” For Nylabones, go to nylabone.com/ community/donations.htm.) For Kong and toy stuffing, variety is the spice of life. The little plastic- wrapped string cheese sticks are easy to store and easy to use. Dog treats, kibble, canned food, cream cheese, and other tasty bites can be layered into the toys with peanut butter for stickiness. Try mobilizing your staff, volunteers, school groups, and visitors to collect and donate used plastic peanut butter jars and water and soda bottles. Have large collection bins in your lobby and kitchen that make it easy for people to remember; an attractive poster on the bins explaining enrichment would be a nice touch! Getting Creative For those who want to go further with enrichment, the real fun begins! Here are just a few ideas Mission Dog has collected from shelter wizards: Doggie Pinata: Get a half- or one gallon plastic milk jug with a handle. Poke a few holes in the bottom, just slightly larger than the size dog food you plan to put inside it. Hang the jug from a bar above the kennel, using some bungee cords joined together. Watch an active dog play to get his meal. Towel Shredding Toy: Some dogs just love to rip and shred. If you notice a blanket-shredder in your kennel, don’t just remove his bedding privileges (bedding is enrichment, too!). Why not use some of those old donated towels for a higher purpose? Take a towel and place a few dog biscuits smeared with peanut butter in the middle of the towel. Roll the towel up so it covers the treats well. Knot the towel tightly several times around the treats. The tighter the knots, the better the workout. Scent Sticks: Plastic PVC pipes from the hardware store can be fitted with removable end caps so that anything smelly can be placed inside, but the dog can’t remove the contents. A few small holes drilled along the length of the pipe allow scent to escape. Fillings include things you would normally throw out. A few favorites are used rabbit or guinea pig bedding and, yes, horse, sheep, or cat poop! Lasting Results As a trainer, I’ve seen behavior problems like destructive chewing and “hyperactivity” diminish or disappear with proper enrichment in the form of chew toys and interactive food toys. Giving the dog a job - getting food out of a container or toy - displaces destructive behaviors that have no other constructive outlet. This one form of enrichment alone has been close to miraculous for many of the dogs I’ve worked with. I remember Greta, an 8-month-old German shepherd who had developed the habit of compulsively chasing her tail, to the exclusion of interacting with people or playing ball. During a fact-finding conversation with her owner, it became clear that Greta had been spending more and more time crated with nothing to keep her occupied. I suggested that her owner give Greta an interactive food toy every time she was crated, and that she redirect the tail-chasing with some tug-toy chasing whenever it began outside the crate. Within two weeks, Greta had almost completely stopped chasing her tail, and within a month the behavior had disappeared! Greta is not alone. Every dog craves enrichment, and it’s one of the few things that takes so little time and gives immediate results. I know that Lily, Forrest, and Dakota would vouch for it - if they weren’t all fast asleep at my feet. Enrichment Myth-Busting There are some common concerns we hear when discussing enrichment with food and recyclables. We’ve found that most of them are nothing to worry about. Won’t feeding “people food” like peanut butter, cheese, and Spam make dogs beg food from people? Or upset their stomachs? Luckily, dogs have no idea which food was packaged for people and which was packaged for dogs—it’s all just food to them! As long as people don’t feed dogs from the table, they won’t beg from the table. As for the digestive issues, dogs who have food sensitivities or allergies may have loose stools if given large amounts of “people” food—but we almost never see a problem if these foods are given in small amounts as enrichment. Won’t dogs eat the plastic jars and bottles and get sick? Plastic peanut butter and water bottles get dented by the most enthusiastic dogs, but we never see them rip off pieces and ingest them. If in doubt, watch the dog before leaving him alone with a bottle, make sure the bottle is appropriate for the size of the dog, and replace old bottles with new ones each day. Won’t dogs get their heads stuck in jars and suffocate? As long as the mouth of the jar is smaller than the dog’s muzzle, this can’t happen. Aren’t bones bad for dogs? Cooked bones can be dangerous due to splintering, but raw or sterilized beef “marrow” bones are extremely safe. The worst that happens is that tiny, harmless bits may get slowly shaved off the ends and pass through the digestive tract. Some bones will eventually crack into two large pieces; they can then be replaced. Won’t dogs learn to destroy towels if given towel “shredding” toys? The dogs who like to shred fabric will find ways to do it if left without direction. By giving these dogs specific towels (the ones filled with treats!) as an outlet for their chewing preference, the problem of random fabric-chewing can be minimized or even eliminated. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - June 29, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/enriching_a_shelter_dogs_exper.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/enriching_a_shelter_dogs_exper.html Shelter & Rescue Issues Mon, 29 Jun 2009 20:42:42 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/fight-animal-cruelty/puppy-mills/puppy-mill-faq.html Behind the Scenes—A Closer Look at the Puppy Mill Industry The stench of garbage, urine and feces is unbearable. Ammonia hangs heavy in the air, and flies are everywhere. Dim lighting and the constant barking of dogs in distress create a sense of chaos. Row upon row of stacked cages hold dogs matted with feces—some too sick to move. This is the world in which a puppy mill dog lives. While many people may be familiar with the term "puppy mill," few are aware of the horrors associated with one. The ASPCA has been investigating puppy mills for years, helping to expose the realities of this deplorable industry, and thanks to our experts and detailed reports from our undercover puppy mill investigator, the new ASPCA Puppy Mill FAQ offers a greater insight into the notorious puppy trade. “We hope the findings from our investigations will help educate the public about the horrors of puppy mills and will result in an ultimate solution to this very serious problem—the end of selling puppies in pet stores and the closing of puppy mills,” says Bob Baker, Investigator, ASPCA Anti-Cruelty Initiatives. What’s it really like inside the walls of a puppy mill? What happens to sick animals or those no longer able to breed? How much money does a puppy mill actually make per puppy? Are puppy mills similar to factory farms? Find out the answers to these and other questions in our new Puppy Mill FAQ. http://www.aspca.org/fight-animal-cruelty/puppy-mills/puppy-mill-faq.html Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - June 26, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/behind_the_scenesa_closer_look.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/behind_the_scenesa_closer_look.html Puppy Mills Fri, 26 Jun 2009 16:56:41 -0500 Financial Resources for Cat Care Forwarded message - for info, please visit https://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=649&srctid=1&erid=3784162 Financial Resources for Cat Care Are you facing tough financial times and struggling to make ends meet for your entire family—including your pets and feral cat colony? Alley Cat Allies has ideas on how to make providing care more affordable, including resources for obtaining food and for helping you cover emergency veterinary costs. Feral Cat Colony Financial Help If you are caring for a feral cat colony, there are multiple avenues to find support to help you obtain affordable or free food and shelter for the cats. Resources for Obtaining Cat Food Check for surplus food at your local humane society, or human food bank, or local food pantries. Feeding America has an online food bank locator at www.feedingamerica.org. Ask your local market or pet supply store to donate broken packages or dented cans. Some retailers will also donate out-of-date products, which are still good for a few months longer than the sell-by date. Ask local vet clinics if they have surplus or just-out-of-date premium pet foods that they are willing to donate. Hold a cat food drive. Announce the drive in the local paper to collect donations from the public. Your workplace, local religious institutions, and civic or youth groups may be willing to help as well. Sometimes youth groups, clubs, and high schools require community projects that benefit both people and animals. Work with your local scout troop or volunteer organization on the drive for feral cat caregivers. Ask local markets and pet supply shops if you may put out an attractive bin requesting cat food donations. Resources for Obtaining Shelters/Cat Houses for Feral Cats Ask for scrap lumber from building supply stores or contractors, often available at little or no cost. Place an ad asking for used dog houses. This could net several free shelters that, with minor improvements, can be made suitable for cats (usually insulation needs to be added and the door made smaller). Host a shelter building party. Get together with other caregivers and/or your local feral cat organization's supporters to build the houses together. Contact a local Boy or Girl Scout or other youth organization and ask interested youth to complete a service project to help build shelters. Alley Cat Allies' website shows several inexpensive shelters you can make yourself, available at www.alleycat.org/BuildAShelter (click on the second bullet). Spay/Neuter Help Alley Cat Allies' Feral Friends Network is a group of organizations or individuals with feral cat expertise and veterinary practices and clinics that provide neuter surgeries for feral cats located in communities nationwide. Go to www.alleycat.org/response to locate a Feral Friend near you who may offer low-cost or subsidized spay/neuter surgery for feral cats. Veterinary Care Emergency veterinary care can be costly. These national organizations provide funds to those in need. AAHA Helping Pets Fund (www.aahahelpingpets.org) - This fund helps those in need access quality veterinary care for sick or injured pets. Grants temporarily suspended but will begin again in July 2009. Angels4Animals (www.angels4animals.org) - Friends or veterinarians use the "contact us" page to refer an animal family in need of financial assistance. CareCredit (www.carecredit.com) - Offers a revolving line of credit for veterinary expenses. Cats in Crisis (www.catsincrisis.org) - Helps individuals and humane organizations care for cats with chronic or emergency medical conditions through financial and fundraising assistance. Grants temporarily suspended, but check often for re-up date. Feline Veterinary Emergency Assistance Program (www.fveap.org/sys-tmpl/door/) – This program provides financial assistance to cat and kitten guardians who are unable to afford veterinary services to save their companions when life-threatening illness or injury strikes. Help-A-Pet (www.help-a-pet.org) - Help-A-Pet provides financial assistance nationwide for the medical care of pets whose owners are unable to afford the expense; for individuals with income below $20,000 or a family income below $40,000. IMOM (www.imom.org) - Financial assistance for life-threatening and emergency veterinary care. IMOM is dedicated to ensuring that no companion animal has to be euthanized simply because their caretaker is financially challenged. The Pet Fund (www.thepetfund.com) - Provides financial assistance to owners of domestic animals who need urgent veterinary care. United Animal Nations (www.uan.org/lifeline/index.html) – LifeLine grants help Good Samaritans, animal rescuers and low-income families with the high cost of caring for pets by providing grants to meet emergency veterinary expenses they otherwise couldn't afford. Locale Specific Veterinary Care Many local shelters, humane societies, clinics, and pet organizations have special emergency funds to use for families who need special assistance within their communities. Here are a handful, some of which also provide additional help for ongoing animal care: Atlanta - Pets Are Loving Support (www.palsatlanta.org/) - P.A.L.S. provides pet-care, including free food and basic veterinary care, and support to the companion pets of critically ill and disabled Atlantans. Central Ohio - Pet Promise (www.petpromise.org/programs.html) - Provides financial assistance to low-income pet owners who can't afford medical care for their pets. Also sponsors Operation Fill-A-Bowl, providing free of charge, cat and dog food to pet owners who need assistance and to the caretakers of feral cat populations. Their City Kitty program provides vaccinations and spay/neuter surgeries for feral cats. Connecticut Humane Society (www.cthumane.org) - The Connecticut Humane Society's Fox Memorial Clinic is a full-service veterinary practice that provides veterinary care for animals whose owners are in financial need. New York - NY Save (www.nysave.org) - Aid and assistance for low- income pet owners residing in one of the five boroughs of New York City, whose pet is in need of emergency veterinary care. Northern Nevada/Lake Tahoe - Shakespeare Animal Fund (www.shakespeareanimalfund.org) - People in the Northern Nevada/ Lake Tahoe area can apply for funds, with an emphasis on those on fixed incomes or with annual incomes below $35,000. Salt Lake City - Pet Samaritan Fund (www.petsamaritan.org) - Provides financial assistance to Utah pet owners who cannot afford medical care for their pets due to extreme financial hardship (up to $100 upon receipt of veterinary billing statement). San Francisco - Pets Are Wonderful Support (www.pawssf.org) - Provides for the comprehensive needs of companion animals for low-income persons with HIV/AIDS and other disabling illnesses, as well as senior citizens in the San Francisco area. Washington, DC – Pets DC (www.petsdc.org) - Dedicated to improving the health and well being of people living with HIV/AIDS or other disabling conditions and their companion pets by providing public health education, exercise, pet food, veterinary care, grooming, foster care, and adoptions services at no cost to individuals in the Metropolitan Washington area. Other Ideas for Getting Help Work with your veterinarian. Some veterinarians may be willing to work out a payment plan with you, especially if you can provide some of the payment up front. Contact friends and family and fundraise. It's not easy asking for help. But when your animal's life hangs in the balance, it may be the best option to borrow money or hold a fundraiser. Plan ahead. Cut costs and start a savings plan. Consider getting pet owner's insurance to cover veterinary costs now to prepare for any tough times you may have ahead. Get in touch with breed-specific groups. If your pet is a specific breed, the groups associated with it often have funds available to help provide the care your animal needs. Facing Foreclosure? The news is full of stories of animals losing their homes along with their pet parents due to home foreclosure. Some tips for dealing with this looming threat: Educate yourself about ways to prevent foreclosure all together. The best way to keep your whole family together (pets and all) is to stay in your home. At http://makinghomeaffordable.gov/, you can see if you are eligible for government-sponsored foreclosure alternatives, such as refinancing or loan modifications. No Paws Left Behind (http://nopawsleftbehind.org/paws/) is a nonprofit that provides tips for homeowners as well as an online network to get your pet into the safest place possible if needed. Search for pet-friendly housing. Almost every local humane society or rescue group keeps a list of pet-friendly housing in the area. Some also offer mediation services to help you convince a potential landlord to allow the animal to come with you if it is not normally acceptable. To prepare for these discussions, gather proof of your responsibility toward your pet, including veterinary care and statements from others agreeing to your conscientiousness. Work hard to find your animal the best temporary home possible. Talk with family, friends, co-workers, and neighbors. Ask your veterinarian about temporary boarding. Whatever you do, do not take your animal to an open-admission shelter, because they will likely be killed. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - June 13, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/financial_resources_for_cat_ca.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/financial_resources_for_cat_ca.html Cats Sat, 13 Jun 2009 13:10:29 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://fortheloveofthedogblog.com/behavior/the-guilty-look-does-it-mean-your-dog-is-really-guilty “The Guilty Look” - Does it Mean Your Dog is Really Guilty? Deanna Raeke For the Love of the Dog Blog Thursday, June 11th, 2009 If you have dogs, you’ve seen it, “the guilty look.” You see a mess and look at your furry family member, maybe ask if they did it and you get it and it confirms their guilt. The question is, is your dog actually feeling guilty or is “the guilty look” a response to you; your tone and attitude? I’ve always believed that it’s just a response to a person’s tone and attitude because I don’t believe a dog can feel “guilt” as we know it. I can get that look from mine just by using a certain tone of voice regardless of the words whether my babies have done anything wrong or not. I think more what we are seeing is nervousness, worry or even fear, in response to us. When you think about it, it really follows along with the thinking that unless you actually catch a dog “in the act” of doing something wrong, it makes no sense to correct them because dogs don’t “know” right from wrong except by training. If a dog has an “accident” and you discover it hours later, admonishing them will only create fear and rather then further the housebreaking will actually set it back. Same goes with dogs getting into the trash, chewing shoes or other items, etc. They don’t “remember” or associate the forbidden act with the admonishment. Now a study conducted by Alexandra Horowitz, Assistant Professor from Barnard College in New York and recently published in the “Canine Behaviour and Cognition” Special Issue of Elsevier’s Behavioural Processes seems to back up my thought on this issue. Horowitz was able to show that the human tendency to attribute a “guilty look” to a dog was not due to whether the dog was indeed guilty. Instead, people see ‘guilt’ in a dog’s body language when they believe the dog has done something it shouldn’t have – even if the dog is in fact completely innocent of any offense. During the study, owners were asked to leave the room after ordering their dogs not to eat a tasty treat. While the owner was away, Horowitz gave some of the dogs this forbidden treat before asking the owners back into the room. In some trials the owners were told that their dog had eaten the forbidden treat; in others, they were told their dog had behaved properly and left the treat alone. What the owners were told, however, often did not correlate with reality. Whether the dogs’ demeanor included elements of the “guilty look” had little to do with whether the dogs had actually eaten the forbidden treat or not. Dogs looked most “guilty” if they were admonished by their owners for eating the treat. In fact, dogs that had been obedient and had not eaten the treat, but were scolded by their (misinformed) owners, looked more “guilty” than those that had, in fact, eaten the treat. Thus the dog’s guilty look is a response to the owner’s behavior, and not necessarily indicative of any appreciation of its own misdeeds. (Science Daily) So next time your dog gives you “the guilty look,” instead of scolding your canine companion, think about what you did. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - June 12, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/the_guilty_look_does_it_mean_y.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/the_guilty_look_does_it_mean_y.html Behavior Problems & Solutions Fri, 12 Jun 2009 21:37:53 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.ahscares.org/showarchive.asp?id=567 Keep Your Pet Safe in Summer ASSOCIATED HUMANE SOCIETIES/POPCORN PARK REMINDS PET OWNERS TO CELEBRATE THE SUMMER SAFELY June 10, 2009 BACKYARD BARBECUES, NOISY PARADES, LOTS OF LOUD MUSIC AND, OF COURSE, FIREWORKS. Those summertime rituals are all great fun for people, but they are traumatic and dangerous to their pets. More pets run away from home over the Fourth of July holiday than any other. And with many towns holding fireworks displays throughout the summer, summertime runaways are becoming more and more commonplace. “They’re beautiful for us to look at, but many people forget that their dogs’ hearing is much more acute than theirs. Dogs don’t understand the thunderous noise of fireworks and instinctively try to run away from the sound,” said Roseann Trezza, Executive Director, Associated Humane Societies/Popcorn Park. “So, as soon as they have a chance – maybe a fence to jump, or an open door to run out of – a fearful dog will run fast.” Many dogs experience similar phobias during thunderstorms or when loud music is being played. Your dog may show the following signs: shaking, drooling, howling or barking, finding a place in the house to hide, and loss of bladder or bowel control. Associated Humane Societies offers the following tips to keep pets feeling safe and secure when during fireworks or thunderstorms. • Take your pet for a walk or play date before the fireworks start. This allows your dog to exercise, release energy and, of course, go “potty”. • Keep pets indoors. They may even feel safer if they are placed in a smaller interior room. • Close your windows. Dogs and cats, in particular, can try and get out of the house by pushing through a screen. Also, closed windows will deaden some of the noise. • Make sure your pet has a license and an identification tag on its collar or consider having a microchip identification inserted into your pet. Summertime pet safety means more than just preparing your pets for noise. Those lazy crazy days of summer for us are filled with a number of hazards for pets. • Keep Pets Away from Your Drinks. A cold beer or cooler may hit the spot for you, but it is potentially lethal to your pets, who can become intoxicated, weak and even comatose from drinking any alcoholic beverage. • Skip the Sunscreen: Sunscreen and insect repellent not labeled specifically for use on animals can be poisonous if the pet ingests it. Play it safe and don’t use it on your pets. • Matches, lighter fluid and citronella are outside staples that absolutely need to stay out of the reach of your pets. All are poisonous to animals. Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingestions can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression. If inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia in animals. A day at the beach for you is fun. A day at the beach for your dog is potentially deadly. Sand is hot and uncomfortable. Salt water is dangerous to drink and unless there is a cool shady area, the constant sunshine makes pets susceptible to heat stroke. Never, ever leave a pet alone in a vehicle. Even on an overcast, cooler spring day, temperatures inside your car can reach 120 to 130 degrees in less than a half-hour. Just a few minutes in those conditions can be detrimental to your pet’s health and safety. Not only that, more and more dogs are being stolen from unattended vehicles. Once again, just leave them home. Don’t leave your pet unattended outside, even in a fenced in yard. Fearful pets, even those who are usually placid, often find ways to scale fences or climb under them in an attempt to get away from something. It takes just seconds for your dog to run away, or have its leash or collar tangled on a fencepost, tree or other object. Make sure screened windows are secure, especially those on upper levels. Despite what many think, cats can be seriously injured or die from window falls. You know that your window ledge is at a dangerously high level, but your cat does not. Make a new friend or a family addition. There are hundreds of dogs and cats waiting for adoption at the Associated Humane Societies’ three animal care centers in Forked River, Tinton Falls and Newark. To learn more or to find ways to help the many animals being cared for through AHS log on to www.ahscares.org Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - June 10, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/keep_your_pet_safe_in_summer.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/keep_your_pet_safe_in_summer.html Seasonal Health Issues Wed, 10 Jun 2009 15:40:15 -0500 Tips for Recognizing and Caring for a Sick Pet TIPS FOR RECOGNIZING AND CARING FOR A SICK PET Courtesy of American Humane Association 1. Keep in mind that animals will generally attempt to mask signs of illness. This behavior is a natural instinct that is used for protection in the wild where any animal showing signs of weakness is likely to be shunned by its own kind and/or attacked by predators. 2. Be aware that any subtle change in your pet’s appearance or behavior could indicate illness. Some signs to watch for include: - Decrease or loss of appetite - Decrease in energy or activity level - Hiding - Vomiting or diarrhea - Blood in the urine or stool - Bloating of the abdomen - Straining or inability to urinate or defecate - Increased shedding or bald patches - Excessive scratching or licking of the body - Foul odor coming from the mouth, ears, or skin - Discharge from the eyes or nose - Limping - Seizures - Reluctance or difficulty in getting up or going up and down stairs - Abnormal vocalization (whining or crying) 3. Know which signs indicate an emergency that requires immediate veterinary care and which require veterinary care if they continue for more than a day or two. Symptoms that indicate an emergency include the inability to urinate, a bloated hard abdomen, excessive vomiting or diarrhea, seizures, and the inability to stand up. Other less severe signs of illness should be checked by a veterinarian within 24 to 48 hrs. 4. Once you have taken a sick pet to your veterinarian, you may need to continue medical care at home in the form of medication, special foods, or supportive physical care. Here are some tips on handling the daily care of a sick pet: - Make sure you know the correct dose and understand how to give medications prescribed by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian knows that medicating a pet can be challenging and he will be glad to give you a demonstration and some extra coaching if you need it. - Keep in mind that a sick pet should be kept in a quiet environment and he may prefer to be left alone. Make sure that young children and other pets do not bother him. You may need to keep your sick pet in a separate room or area of the house. - If your veterinarian has prescribed a special food for your sick pet, make sure that you feed him separately from other pets. Also be sure that all members of your household are aware of your pet’s special dietary needs and understand that even small amounts of treats or other types of foods could be harmful. - Be aware of any special physical needs that your sick pet may have. Some medications may cause your pet to drink and urinate more so you may need to walk him or clean his litter box more frequently. If your pet is having difficulty walking or going up and down stairs, you may need to help him. Ask your veterinarian to show you the correct way to assist your pet so that you will not hurt him. 5. Report any worsening symptoms or new symptoms to your veterinarian immediately, as these could indicate that your pet’s illness has become more serious. New symptoms could also be side effects of your pet’s medication. Your veterinarian may want to re-examine your pet or he may simply change your pet’s medication. 6. Be sure to finish all medications as prescribed by your veterinarian and take your pet back to your veterinarian for any recommended recheck exams or diagnostic tests. Even if your pet seems completely better to you, it is very important that you adhere to your veterinarian’s instructions. Even if your pet does not look or act sick anymore, there could still be an underlying illness that could recur if you don’t follow through on all of your veterinarian’s recommendations. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group June 10, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/tipe_for_recognizing_and_carin.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/tipe_for_recognizing_and_carin.html Miscellaneous Medical Topics Wed, 10 Jun 2009 09:10:04 -0500 SOME GREAT PET CARE PROVIDER RESOURCES! Like myself, many people in Rescue also are working Pet Care Providers, so here is some information for anyone interested in learning more. Have fun! hi_from_terry@yahoo.com Choosing a Pet Sitter? Just because someone calls herself a pet sitter doesn't mean she's qualified to do the job. Learn what you need to know and what to look for when looking for a pet care provider. http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/choosing_a_pet_sitter/ How To Choose A Pet Sitter & Pet Sitting FAQ Here's what your clients are looking for. By Professional United Pet Sitters (PUPS) http://www.petsits.com/petowners_howtochooseasitter.htm * INSURANCE COMPARISONS & BONDING INFORMATION This is a MUST go to web page, especially for newbies! Here you will find a "List of Known Pet Sitting Insurers" with a USA Insurance Comparison Chart. http://www.petsits.com/insurance.htm (Note: You do not have to be certified to get insurance) * Pet Sitter Associates, INSURANCE FOR PETSITERS A US-and-parts-of-Canada association offering basic benefits and insurance.... not as costly as NAAPS or PSI and they offer a property liability insurance add-on that relieves the need for bonding (they pay aggrieved clients up front). http://www.petsitllc.com * Pet Care Certifications 101 * How and why to get certified. You're an animal lover, have plenty of experience with pets (or own them yourself). Maybe you've even set up shop already as an official dog walking or pet care business. You know you're qualified. So why should you shell out more money to get certified? https://www.care.com/pet-care-a04131151-certifications.html * National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (NAPPS ) * NAPPS offers its members professional integrity and education, as well as networking opportunities. In addition, the organization serves as a major voice for the pet sitting industry. Their The Certification Program enables you to become certified in pet sitting by completing a course of study in business management, animal care and health issues. http://www.petsitters.org/ * Pet Sitter's Center * Pet Sitter's Center™ provides products and services exclusively for pet sitting businesses. Our goal is to guide new start ups and help them grow and succeed. Whether you need a website for your existing pet sitting business or need some help starting a new business, we can assist you. Sitters can list their services here. http://www.petsitcenter.com/ * Pet Sitters Biz * Our focus is providing a secure environment where pet owners can quickly match, screen, and select pet sitters; and pet sitters can achieve their financial and lifestyle objectives. Pet day care centers, and dog walking services also list. http://www.pet-sitters.biz/ * Pet Sitters International ( PSI ) * Pet Sitters International is dedicated to educating professional pet sitters and promoting, supporting and recognizing excellence in pet sitting. PSI prides itself on maintaining long-term, interactive relationships with our ever-expanding network of members and the pet owners they serve. http://www.petsit.com/ * Professional United Pet Sitters LLC (PUPS)(also has Insurance) * To get your pet sitting business or dog walking service listed in our Find A Pet Sitter Directory, you just need to join our group. Currently the one time membership fee includes one listing for your Dog Walking, Poop Scooping, or Pet Sitting business. Membership to our group is available to all Pet Sitting, Dog Walking, and Poop Scooping professionals. The joining fee is a one time fee of $29.94, http://www.petsits.com/ Pet Sit Finder's - Member of Pet Sitters Associates, LLC? (above) Include your member ID number and receive $10 off your listing for the year.. See the listing for insurance noted as "a." above. Welcome to Pet Sit Finder's online pet sitter, walker, pooper scooper and pet boarding search engine. Looking to be listed on PetSitFinder? Just fill out the application. http://www.petsitfinder.com/ * SITTER CITY * With over 150,000 caregivers across the country, Sittercity is the nation's largest and most easily accessible database for babysitters, nannies and pet sitters. Are You a Sitter or Pet Care provider? Sign up here to create a profile and get started! It's completely free and easy to create. We provide so much more than basic babysitting and pet care. Check out all of the fun, creative and effective ways Sittercity can make your life a little easier. http://www.sittercity.com/ * The Pet Sitting Directory * Advertise your Pennsylvania & New Jersey Pet Sitting Service! The Pet Sitting Directory is a human edited directory of advertisers that provides an easy comparison of pet sitters, dog walkers and pet boarding services in your state. http://www.petsittingdirectory.com/ * Interviewing Pet Sitters * What should you be prepared to answer? You might hate the whole process of being interviewed, but if you have an experienced client, you better be prepared or you may not get their business. Regarless, you should always be prepared. See what professionals tell the client to ask you! https://www.care.com/pet-care-a12171141-how-to-interview-pet- sitter.html * Money 101 for Pet Care Providers Whether you're just starting out, working part-time, or launching your own full-time pet care business, these smart tips and tricks for accounting should help you keep your books balanced-and your sanity in tact. https://www.care.com/pet-care-a04131356-money-101.html * PET CARE ARTICLES FOR THE PET CARE GIVER/CARE.COM Welcome to Care.com! Find jobs for babysitters, nannies, pet sitters, and more. Search for care jobs near you. View job details and apply Remember to keep your profile up-to-date!! https://www.care.com/pet-care-p1022-all-articles.html Posted on SHARE Yahoo Group - June 9, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/some_great_pet_care_provider_r.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/06/some_great_pet_care_provider_r.html General Information Tue, 09 Jun 2009 12:49:25 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/cat_behavior_tip_sheets/eating_strange_objects_such_as_feces.html Eating Strange Objects (Such as Feces) If your pet has an appetite for such oddities as socks, rocks, or even feces, chances are you've wondered—and worried—about her unusual eating habits. In this case, your worry may be justified: Not only can your possessions be destroyed or damaged, but objects such as clothing and rocks can produce life-threatening blockages in your pet's intestines. Eating non-food items has a name: It's called pica. A specific type of pica is stool eating—either the dog's own or that of another animal. It's called coprophagy. Rarely seen in cats, coprophagy is fairly common in dogs, especially those who tend to be highly food-motivated. And although it's not necessarily dangerous to the animal, it probably is unacceptable to you. The causes of pica and coprophagy are not known. Many theories have been proposed by various experts, but none has been proven or disproven. One idea is that such behaviors may be attention-seeking behaviors. If engaging in one of these behaviors results in some type of social interaction between the animal and his owner—even a verbal scolding—then the behavior may be reinforced and occur more frequently. Others think these behaviors may be attempts to obtain a necessary nutrient lacking in the diet, although no nutritional studies have ever substantiated this idea. Pica and coprophagy may also stem from frustration or anxiety. It's even possible that the behaviors begin as play; as the animal investigates and chews on the objects, she eventually begins to eat or ingest them. Some experts have suggested that coprophagy is carried over from the normal parental behavior of ingesting the waste of young offspring. Others believe that coprophagy occurs more often in animals who live in relatively barren environments, are frequently confined to small areas, and/or receive limited attention from their owners. It's also possible that dogs learn this behavior from other dogs. Because pica and coprophagy are not well understood, stopping these behaviors may require assistance from an animal behavior professional who will work individually with you and your pet. Suggested Solutions for Coprophagy Because the cause of coprophagy isn't known, no techniques or solutions are known to be consistently successful. However, the following techniques may be effective in resolving the problem: * Treat your pet's food with something that causes his stool to taste bad. A commercial product called 4-BID™ is available through your veterinarian. The same result may be achieved by using the food additive MSG. Based on owners' reports, both of these products work in many cases, but not always. Before using either of these products, consult with your veterinarian. * Give your pet's stools a bad taste by sprinkling them directly with cayenne pepper or a commercial product such as Bitter Apple®. For this method to be effective, every stool your pet has access to must be treated so that he learns that eating stools results in something unpleasant. Otherwise, he may discriminate (using scent) which stools have been treated and which have not. * Keep your dog on a leash any time you take him outside. If you see him about to ingest a stool, interrupt him by clapping your hands, spraying a squirt bottle, or shaking a can (only for pets who aren't afraid of loud noises). Then immediately give him a toy to play with instead, and praise him for taking an interest in the toy. * Clean your yard daily to minimize your pet's opportunity to eat his stools. * If your dog eats cat feces from the litter box, install a baby-gate in front of the litter box area. Your cat shouldn't have any trouble jumping over it, but your dog likely won't even make the attempt. Or, place the litter box in a closet or room where the door can be wedged slightly open from both sides so that your cat has access but your dog doesn't. Think twice before setting up a some kind of homemade "booby trap" to stop your dog from eating cat feces from a litter box: Remember that if it frightens your dog, it's likely to frighten your cat, too. Suggested Solutions for Pica Pica can be a serious problem because items such as rubber bands, socks, rocks, and string can severely damage or block an animal's intestines. In some instances, the items must be surgically removed. Because pica can be potentially life-threatening, it's advisable to consult both your veterinarian and an animal behavior professional for help. Here are some other suggestions: * Make the objects your pet is eating taste unpleasant by applying cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple®, or some other aversive. (For more information on using aversives, see our tip sheets on using aversives to modify your pet's behavior). * Prevent your pet's access to these items. * If your pet is food-oriented, change his diet to a low-calorie or high-fiber diet. This may allow him to eat more food, more often, which may decrease the behavior. Check with your veterinarian before changing your pet's diet. * If you suspect that anxiety or frustration is the reason for your animal's pica habit, change the behavior by using behavior modification techniques. * If you catch your pet ingesting items and believe it is to get attention, startle your pet with a loud noise or a spray of water. If possible, avoid letting him know that the startling noise or spray came from you, and be sure to praise him when he leaves the items alone. You may want to give him something acceptable to eat or chew. Try to set aside 10–15 minutes twice a day to spend with your pet so that he doesn't need to resort to pica to get your attention. * If you think your pet's pica habit is play behavior, then keep plenty of toys around for your pet to play with. Cats especially like to play with string, rubber bands, and tinsel, and ultimately ingest them. Keep these items out of reach and provide a selection of appropriate toys. (See our tips on Cat Toys and How to Use Them and Dog Toys and How to Use Them.) What Doesn't Work: * Interactive punishment (punishment that comes directly from you, such as verbal scolding) is usually not effective because it may be interpreted by your pet as attention. What's more, many animals learn to refrain from the problem behavior when their owner is present, yet still engage in the behavior when their owner is absent. * Punishment after the fact is never helpful. Animals don't understand that they're being punished for something they did hours or even minutes before. This approach won't resolve the problem and is likely to produce either fearful or aggressive responses from your pet. Posted on SHARE Yahoog Group - May 29, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/eating_strange_objects_such_as.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/eating_strange_objects_such_as.html Behavior Problems & Solutions Fri, 29 May 2009 09:35:14 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_she\ ets/aggression.html Canine Aggression A dog's bark may be worse than his bite, but most of us would rather not find out one way or the other. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping, and biting are all aggressive behaviors—but dog aggression includes any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Although these messages are among the handful of communication tools available to dogs, they're generally unacceptable to humans. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. But from a dog's perspective, there's always a reason for aggressive behavior. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren't being schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious" when displaying aggressive behavior. Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior. Types of Aggression Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established. If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, he'll probably challenge you in certain situations. Because people don't always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner (like hugging), may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for fights among dogs in the same family is instability in the dominance hierarchy. Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it's your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog's response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog may bite you because he believes he's protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs. Protective, Territorial, and Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial, and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property, and that "territory" may extend well past the boundaries of your yard. For example, if you regularly walk your dog around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, he may think his territory includes the entire block. Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals whom a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys, or other valued objects, including items as peculiar as tissues stolen from the trash. Redirected Aggression: This is a relatively common type of aggression but one that is often misunderstood by pet owners. If a dog is somehow provoked by a person or animal he is unable to attack, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. For example, two family dogs may become excited, and bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard; or two dogs confined behind a fence may turn and attack each other because they can't attack an intruder. Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior because it's motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate. Individual Variation The likelihood of a dog to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation varies markedly from dog to dog. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events and yet never attempt to bite. The difference in the threshold prompting aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques, but the potential for change is influenced by a dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and the way in which the behavior modification techniques are chosen and implemented. Because working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, behavior modification techniques should only be attempted by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior. What You Can Do: * First, check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior. * Seek professional advice. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist. * Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep people and other animals safe. Supervise, confine, and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional guidance. You are liable for your dog's behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and remember that some dogs are clever enough to get a muzzle off. * Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his contact with people. * If your dog is possessive of toys or treats, or territorial in certain locations, prevent access and you'll prevent the problem. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken. * Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial, and protective aggressive behavior. What NOT to Do: * Punishment won't help and, in fact, will often make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog may actually lead him to escalate his behavior to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive, or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression. Posted on SHARE Yahoo Group - May 28, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/canine_aggression.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/canine_aggression.html Behavior Problems & Solutions Thu, 28 May 2009 18:48:02 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.marvistavet.com/html/cerebellar_hypoplasia.html Note: Please consult a veterinarian for all medical issues Cerebellar Hypoplasia in cats - caused by feline distemper virus The cat with cerebellar hypoplasia is abnormal from birth, though it may not be clear that something is wrong until the kittens are toddling around with some coordination. The cat with this disease clearly has balance issues: he walks with his legs widely placed for fear of falling and places his feet clumsily. He often leans against walls for support. Sitting still, he may look like a fairly normal cat but once focused on a toy, food bowl or friendly hand, tremors begin getting more wobbly as concentration becomes more intense. Still, despite the obvious impairment, cats with this condition are happy, able to feed themselves and use a litter box, and are felt to have good life quality. The cerebellum is part of the central nervous system though not exactly part of the brain. It is nestled inside your skull at the base of the brain as shown in this picture. The cerebellum is involved in the involuntary aspects of moving our bodies, whether we are walking around, reaching for something, or just turning our heads. These all seem like voluntary activities so it might be difficult to consider that there is something involuntary going on as well. Still, consider walking across an uneven perhaps rocky terrain while carrying on a conversation with another person. Certainly the decision to move from point A to point B is voluntary but the chances are you can walk across pretty uneven terrain without falling down or even thinking about where to put your feet. You can thank your cerebellum for that. Your cerebellum receives information from your feet as well as from the vestibular apparatus in your middle ear. This information tells you where up and down are and where your body is in relation to up and down. Your cerebellum integrates all this information so that you can not only walk or run across uneven terrain without devoting any conscious thought to how to do so, you can turn your head, maybe even drink from a bottle of water, and look at another person while you are walking without (much) chance of falling down. YOUR CAT’S CEREBELLUM AND THE FELINE DISTEMPER VIRUS The cerebellum is obviously a complex piece of equipment. During development before birth, the cerebellum is maturing up until the last few days before birth. This leaves the cerebellum vulnerable to an assortment of toxins. In the case of cerebellar hypoplasia the culprit is the feline distemper virus. Growing nerves in the cerebellum are destroyed creating a tiny cerebellum and a disability in the kitten. The mother cat need not be actually infected during pregnancy to create this syndrome; she can simply be vaccinated with a modified live distemper vaccine, the most basic of all cat vaccines. Kittens infected with distemper under age 2 weeks may also experience enough cerebellar damage to suffer cerebellar hypoplasia. This means that mother cats due for vaccines should not be vaccinated during pregnancy nor in the first 2 weeks following kitten delivery. DIAGNOSIS While special imaging such as CT scanning or MRI can be used to confirm the underdeveloped tiny cerebellum, the diagnosis of this condition is usually obvious because of the following features: The condition is non-progessive (it doesn’t get worse). The cat is not weak, just not coordinated. “Intention tremors” are evident when the cat is focused but the cat looks largely normal if still. Walking is incoordinated with a wide stance, often using the wall for support. The internet is rife with video shot by owners of “CH” cats. Here is a video of kittens showing the typical clinical signs (click on the “play” arrow to play video): http://tinyurl.com/lprdn7 TREATMENT No treatment can resolve the damage in a kitten with cerebellar hypoplasia. Some kittens are more severely affected than others. Owning a cat with cerebellar hypoplasia emphasizes managing the condition. The cat should be indoors only and non-spill food dishes should be obtained. Most cats have good life quality and make up in personality what they lack in motor skills. http://tinyurl.com/m8nfuz Some on-line communities have sprung up for owners of cats with cerebellar hypoplasia. Here are two areas that might be of interest. http://community.livejournal.com/ch_kitties/ www.chkittyclub.com/pages/home.html PREVENTION This syndrome is easily prevented by vaccinating female cats for feline distemper when they are not pregnant. This means that regular vaccination will prevent cerebellar hypoplasia in kittens. If a cat is pregnant, vaccination should be withheld during pregnancy and for a good 2-3 weeks after the kittens are born. Posted on SHARE Yahoo Group - May 28, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/cerebellar_hypoplasia_in_cats.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/cerebellar_hypoplasia_in_cats.html Cats Thu, 28 May 2009 18:41:33 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit www.AskUsWhy.com ARISE Campaign: Animal Replacements Innovate Scientific Experiments Dear friends, NJ Animal Rights Alliance is pleased to announce the creation and kick- off of the ARISE campaign. The mission of ARISE (Animal Replacements Innovate Scientific Experimentation) is to educate the public regarding the unnecessary and often disastrous effects of relying on animals for drug testing, chemical toxicity and product testing and for dissection - and to promote ground breaking and powerful new tools and techniques that will create better science, are more effective and will saves lives, both human and animal alike. Our message will be carried through our completely recreated and redesigned website, www.AskUsWhy.com, our accompanying literature and healthy/compassionate living guides, and our schedule of lectures and tabling events. If you see an opportunity for ARISE to speak at an event, let us know. If you know a student who does not want to dissect animals, call us - we are here to offer our assistance. You can call us anytime at 732-561-4642 or email us: arise@askuswhy.com ARISE has already taken the initiative; on March 31, we attended an Environmental Protection Agency hearing in Washington D.C. regarding an animal toxicity testing mandate. You can read our testimony in its entirety here: http://www.askuswhy.com/epa.html You’ll also find on our new website the following sections and more: Animal Replacements: With the acknowledgement that animals are poor substitutes for humans, and with national and international support and funding, pioneering animal replacements are being turned into reality. We Give Them Names - They Give Them Numbers: A parallel view of the animals we love and the animals that scientists experiment upon. Special Reports: ARISE investigative reports on animal experimentation issues. SOS - Saving OurSelves: While promoting and utilizing human-centric scientific research is critical to finding cures, each of us can play a significant role in saving our own lives, through lifestyle change and healthy living. Cruelty Free Living: One of the simplest and most direct ways that you can impact and reduce animal testing is to purchase products that are not tested on animals. Elect Not to Dissect: NJ students have the right under law to choose not to dissect animals. Rise to their Defense: Educate yourself and take action to help save lives and improve science for all of us. “Consider just one stark statistic: Today, nine out of 10 compounds developed in the lab fail in human studies. They fail, in large part because they behave differently in people than they did in animal or laboratory tests.” Andrew C. von Eschenbach, Acting Commissioner of Food and Drugs, Jan. 12, 2006 This is the question we will put to the public; do you trust something that has a 90% failure rate - or is there a better way? ARISE is here to help create that better way. Sincerely, Stuart Chaifetz Program Director, The ARISE Campaign PO Box 174 Englishtown, NJ 07726 732 561 4642 Posted on SHARE Yahoo Group - May 28, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/arise_campaign_animal_replacem.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/arise_campaign_animal_replacem.html Animal Protection Thu, 28 May 2009 18:09:01 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.aspca.org/news/tri-state/05-15-09.html#4 ASPCA Guide to Pet-Safe Gardening This spring, deep-country and urban gardeners alike are pruning the greenery with pets by their sides. But beware, pet parents— elements in your lush, flowery nooks can be dangerous to animal companions. Says Dana Farbman, pet poison prevention expert for the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), “Keeping animals safe from accidental poisonings should not end once you’ve stepped outside—protecting your pet from potential hazards in the yard is just as critical.” Last year, the APCC fielded 60,000 calls by pet parents whose animal companions had come into contact with fertilizers, insecticides, weed killers and pet-toxic plants. Read the complete ASPCA Gardener’s Guide to learn how to keep your pet safe. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/pet-safe-gardening.html Here's a sneak peek at some of the tips offered by our ASPCA experts: Keep pet-poisonous plants off your property. Sago palm as well as mushrooms can cause liver failure, while rhododendron, azalea, lily of the valley, oleander, rosebay, foxglove and kalanchoe can all harm your pet's heart. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/ Fertilizers are dangerous. They often contain heavy metals such as iron that, if ingested in large enough amounts, can cause severe gastric upset and possibly gastrointestinal obstruction. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/ask-the-expert/ask-the-expert-poison-control/fertilizer.html Don’t use cocoa mulch! The sweet smell of this popular mulch attracts dogs, and like chocolate, ingestion can cause vomiting, diarrhea and elevated heart rates in our canine friends. http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/ask-the-expert/ask-the-expert-poison-control/cocoa-bean-shell-mulch.html If you suspect your pet has eaten something toxic from your garden or yard, please contact your veterinarian or the APCC 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435. Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - 5/17/09 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/aspca_guide_to_petsafe_gardeni.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/aspca_guide_to_petsafe_gardeni.html Seasonal Health Issues Sun, 17 May 2009 18:51:13 -0500 Forwarded message - for info, please visit http://www.fda.gov/consumer/updates/cushings051109.html Treating Cushing's Disease in Dogs In December 2008, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the first drug in more than 10 years to treat Cushing's disease in dogs. Hyperadrenocorticism, commonly known as Cushing's disease, is a condition that results when the body produces too much of a hormone called cortisol. Cortisol is produced and stored by the adrenals, two small glands that sit on top of the kidneys. Dogs, cats, and horses, as well as humans, can get Cushing's disease. It is more commonly found in dogs than in cats or horses. "Cortisol is one of the body's natural steroids," says Ann Stohlman, V.M.D., a veterinarian in FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine, adding that a normal amount of cortisol is good. "It helps the body adapt in times of stress." Cortisol also helps regulate proper body weight, tissue structure, skin condition, and other features of good health. But too much cortisol weakens the immune system, leaving the body vulnerable to other diseases and infections. Two Common Types Most canine Cushing's disease occurs naturally and is either pituitary- dependent or adrenal-dependent. About 80–85 percent of Cushing's is pituitary-dependent, meaning it's triggered by a tumor on the pituitary, a pea-sized gland at the base of the brain. The pituitary makes a number of hormones, including adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH). The pituitary tumor causes overproduction of ACTH, which travels through the bloodstream to the adrenal glands, stimulating them to produce more cortisol than the body needs. In the other 15–20 percent of Cushing's dogs, a tumor in one or both adrenal glands produces excess cortisol. The type of Cushing's may determine what kind of treatment is prescribed. Veterinarians use blood tests to diagnose Cushing's and to differentiate between disease caused by the pituitary or the adrenals. They may also use an ultrasound to help detect a tumor on an adrenal gland. Symptoms Cushing's disease typically occurs in middle-aged to older dogs. The disease develops slowly and the early signs are not always noticed. Symptoms in dogs include increased thirst increased urination increased appetite reduced activity excessive panting thin or fragile skin hair loss recurrent skin infections enlargement of the abdomen, resulting in a "pot-bellied" appearance back to top Treatment Most veterinarians treat Cushing's disease with medication. The only way to "cure" Cushing's disease is to remove the adrenal tumor if the disease is adrenal-dependent and the tumor hasn't spread, says Stohlman. However, because of the complexity and risks of the surgery, most cases are treated with medication. Currently, surgery to remove a pituitary tumor is not an option. Although Cushing's is typically a lifelong condition, the disease usually can be managed with medications. "It's important for a veterinarian to see the dog regularly and do blood tests," Stohlman says. "Monitoring the blood helps determine the right dose, which may need to be adjusted periodically." Frequent blood tests are usually required in the first few months after starting treatment and then every few months after that, depending on the dog's response to treatment and tolerance to the medication. Vetoryl (trilostane) Capsules, the latest drug approved to treat canine Cushing's, is also the first drug approved to treat both pituitary- and adrenal-dependent Cushing's in dogs. This prescription drug works by stopping the production of cortisol in the adrenal glands. In studies of the drug, the most common side effects were vomiting, lack of energy, diarrhea, and weight loss. Vetoryl should not be given to a dog that has kidney or liver disease takes certain medications used to treat heart disease is pregnant The safety and effectiveness of Vetoryl were shown in several studies. Success was measured by improvements in both blood test results and physical symptoms (increased appetite and activity level, and decreased panting, thirst and urination). Only one other drug, Anipryl (selegiline), is FDA-approved to treat Cushing's disease in dogs, but only to treat uncomplicated, pituitary- dependent Cushing's. Veterinarians have often used a human chemotherapy drug, Lysodren (mitotane), "off-label" to treat Cushing's in dogs. Lysodren destroys the layers of the adrenal gland that produce cortisol. It requires careful monitoring and can have severe side effects. "Off-label," or "extra-label," means veterinarians can legally prescribe human drugs to animals for uses not listed on the label, or for other species or at different dosage levels from those listed on the label. But because dogs may react unpredictably to human drugs, says Stohlman, it's beneficial to have treatments available that have been studied in dogs and approved specifically for them. "Treating Cushing's is a balancing act," Stohlman says. "But dogs with the disease can live a good life if they are monitored closely by a veterinarian and the owner is diligent about bringing the dog in for blood work and giving the medication as directed." his article appears on FDA's Consumer Health Information Web page (www.fda.gov/consumer), which features the latest updates on FDA-regulated products. Sign up for free e-mail subscriptions at www.fda.gov/consumer/consumerenews.html. For More Information www.fda.gov/cvm/CVM_Updates/DogCushingDisease.htm Date Posted: May 11, 2009 Posted on SHARE Yahoo group - May 14, 2009 http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/treating_cushings_disease_in_d.html http://www.shelterandrescue.org/2009/05/treating_cushings_disease_in_d.html Miscellaneous Medical Topics Thu, 14 May 2009 16:51:56 -0500